1/28/2008 Kurt Lawton
U.S. scientists have developed a non-GMO way to breed corn that can boost the vitamin A it gives people who eat it -- a potentially important advance for regions of the world burdened by vitamin A deficiencies, according to a recent Reuters report.
Vitamin A deficiency is an important cause of eye disease and other health problems in developing countries. Corn, also known as maize, is the dominant subsistence crop in much of Latin America and sub-Saharan Africa, where up to 30 percent of children under age 5 are vitamin A deficient.
Scientists want to come up with ways to increase -- or "bio-fortify" -- levels of specific nutrients in crops like corn. Corn has precursors to vitamin A -- compounds called "provitamins" including beta-carotene -- which the body uses to make vitamin A.
Writing on Thursday in the journal Science, the scientists identified a naturally mutated gene that enhances the provitamin A content of maize. Based on this, they developed an inexpensive way to select the parent stock for breeding corn with the highest provitamin A content. Choosing varieties that have this mutated gene can provide on average three-fold higher levels of provitamin A, the researchers said.
There are thousands of different corn varieties, and they differ greatly in provitamin A levels, the scientists said. White corn does not have provitamin A, but yellow varieties have it in varying levels.
A common existing technique for assessing the provitamin A content of corn varieties can be prohibitively expensive for plant breeders, the researchers said, but the new one is vastly less expensive.
"We've come up with a way to detect varieties that will produce high levels of provitamin A inexpensively," said one of the researchers, geneticist Edward Buckler of the U.S. Department of Agriculture and Cornell University in Ithaca, New York. Buckler said the method does not involve the genetic modification of corn. "Vitamin A deficiency is a big problem throughout the world, and it causes a lot of childhood blindness and a lot of immune deficiencies," Buckler said in a telephone interview.
Experts say vitamin A plays a key role in vision, bone growth, regulating the immune system and other functions.
"In parts of Africa, they eat maize three meals a day. And so if you can bio-fortify what they're eating a lot of, even just a small amount, it adds up," Torbert Rocheford, a professor of plant genetics at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign who also worked on the study, said in a telephone interview.
Sabtu, 03 Mei 2008
Soybean Disease Resistance From Distant Cousin
1/11/2008
Kurt LawtonIf an Australian cousin to the soybean cooperates when crossed, the disease and insect resistant benefits could be huge. University of Illinois scientists are overcoming biological barriers to cross soybeans and Glycine tomentella, a distant cousin of soybeans, to produce fertile seeds that hold significant promise for increasing genetic diversity. "Tomentella is a small, viney, perennial that originated from the Brampton Island off Queensland, Australia. It is a distant cousin to the soybean and has useful traits such as resistant to soybean rust, soybean cyst nematodes, soybean aphids, and even viruses like bean pod mottle," said Ram Singh, University of Illinois plant cytogeneticist. Singh's research involves taking pollen from G. tomentella and moving it to the flower of soybean. Creating a fertile plant is a long process. When pollination was successful, pod abortion ensued. To overcome pod abortion, the immature seeds were rescued from aborting pods and cultured in artificial media to nurture the developing embryos and keep them alive. "It has taken anywhere from six months to a year for one seed to germinate. Healthy, fertile, hybridized germplasm could be available to the soybean industry by 2010," said Singh. According to Randall Nelson, USDA soybean geneticist and manger of the National Soybean Germplasm Collection, this hybridization could generate important traits including drought tolerance, yield genes, seed composition genes, and other disease and pest resistance traits. "No doubt, the exotic soybean germplasm coming from successful hybridization will enhance the genetic diversity of commercial soybean cultivars," he said. This research and continued research efforts are supported by the USDA and the Illinois Soybean Association.
Improvements in Soybean Iron Deficiency
2/18/2008 Kurt Lawton
There has been progress in the battle against Iron Deficiency Chlorosis (IDC) in soybeans, says George Rehm, University of Minnesota agronomist. A number of seed companies have improved varieties to the point where damage from this problem is less severe. In addition, field research in the past three growing seasons has shown that the problem is aggravated by high levels of nitrate-nitrogen in the soil and subsequently in the plant tissue. The high levels of nitrate-nitrogen apparently interfere with the metabolism of iron in the plant in the formation of the chlorophyll molecule.
Reduction in severity of IDC can be achieved by reducing the concentration of nitrate-nitrogen in the soil. This is easily accomplished by growing a competition crop with the soybean crop. Probably, the least expensive competition crop is oats.
Starting in 2006 and continuing in 2007, planting oats with soybeans and then killing the oats with Roundup has improved soybean yields in situations where IDC is a serious problem. In 2007, trials to evaluate this concept were conducted in Kandiyohi County. Without the planting of oats, the soybean yield waqs 3.6 bushels per acre. Using oats as a competition crop, the yield was 40.2 bushels per acre. That’s a substantial increase and the cost of planting oats in minimal.
There is a risk in this practice. The oats use soil moisture and, in a dry year, reduced soil moisture could have a negative impact on soybean yield. Therefore, time of Roundup application is important as shown by results from a time of Roundup application study. At another site, yield was 17 bushels per acre when there was no competition crop. When Roundup was applied when the oats reached a height of 6 inches, 12 inches, or heading, the respective yields were 14, 35, and 24 bushels per acre. The results from this site and others strongly suggest that the Roundup should be applied before the oats is taller than 12 inches.
All of this research was conducted under the leadership of Dr. John Lamb.
The seed companies will continue to improve varieties and there will be improvement in management of the competition crop. Although the problem has not been solved completely, there has been significant progress in the past three years. As a result, IDC is not now the problem that it once was.
There has been progress in the battle against Iron Deficiency Chlorosis (IDC) in soybeans, says George Rehm, University of Minnesota agronomist. A number of seed companies have improved varieties to the point where damage from this problem is less severe. In addition, field research in the past three growing seasons has shown that the problem is aggravated by high levels of nitrate-nitrogen in the soil and subsequently in the plant tissue. The high levels of nitrate-nitrogen apparently interfere with the metabolism of iron in the plant in the formation of the chlorophyll molecule.
Reduction in severity of IDC can be achieved by reducing the concentration of nitrate-nitrogen in the soil. This is easily accomplished by growing a competition crop with the soybean crop. Probably, the least expensive competition crop is oats.
Starting in 2006 and continuing in 2007, planting oats with soybeans and then killing the oats with Roundup has improved soybean yields in situations where IDC is a serious problem. In 2007, trials to evaluate this concept were conducted in Kandiyohi County. Without the planting of oats, the soybean yield waqs 3.6 bushels per acre. Using oats as a competition crop, the yield was 40.2 bushels per acre. That’s a substantial increase and the cost of planting oats in minimal.
There is a risk in this practice. The oats use soil moisture and, in a dry year, reduced soil moisture could have a negative impact on soybean yield. Therefore, time of Roundup application is important as shown by results from a time of Roundup application study. At another site, yield was 17 bushels per acre when there was no competition crop. When Roundup was applied when the oats reached a height of 6 inches, 12 inches, or heading, the respective yields were 14, 35, and 24 bushels per acre. The results from this site and others strongly suggest that the Roundup should be applied before the oats is taller than 12 inches.
All of this research was conducted under the leadership of Dr. John Lamb.
The seed companies will continue to improve varieties and there will be improvement in management of the competition crop. Although the problem has not been solved completely, there has been significant progress in the past three years. As a result, IDC is not now the problem that it once was.
New Research on Curbing Aphid Appetite
2/20/2008 Kurt Lawton
Scientists at Kansas State University have discovered that the salivary glands of a tiny insect may hold a key to developing pest resistance in plants.
A team of K-State researchers found that by using technology to silence a gene in the salivary glands of pea aphids, the insect’s lifespan was cut by more than 50 percent.
“What we found is that when we silenced the most abundant transcript (gene), the aphids died in a few days,” said K-State professor of entomology John Reese.
The findings could lead to new ways to control insects in plants, including such important crops as wheat, alfalfa, soybeans, corn and sorghum, Reese said.
Finding ways to develop insect-resistant crops also brings scientists closer to finding ways to reduce agricultural producers’ dependence on pesticides. That helps the environment and lowers growers’ input costs.
“If we can figure out how to get a plant to prevent the functioning of an insect pest’s gene, we can turn that plant into a non-host for that pest,” Reese said.
Reese was part of a research team that included assistant professor of entomology Yoonseong Park and former graduate student Navdeep Mutti, as well as molecular geneticists.
In the study, which was published in the Journal of Insect Science, the researchers injected siRNA into the salivary glands of adult pea aphids, a pest that can be particularly damaging to alfalfa yields. Aphids treated in this way could not survive more than a few days on plants.
Saliva is important in the interaction between aphids and host plants, Reese said. Proteins, including enzymes of aphid saliva, are thought to play several roles – some of which may overcome a plant’s defenses and possibly stimulate plant defenses in non-host plants.
At stake are billions of dollars worth of crops grown every year in the United States and around the world. For example, a study first published by Iowa State University in 2005 found that soybean aphids alone had the potential to cause approximately 3 million acres to be sprayed – an economic toll on its own – and to cause yield losses of more than 55 million bushels, meaning an economic impact of more than $250 million in an outbreak year.
Information on the Iowa State study can be found at http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/icm/node/53.
The K-State research was supported by a U.S. Department of Agriculture grant and by the Kansas Agricultural Experiment Station.
Scientists at Kansas State University have discovered that the salivary glands of a tiny insect may hold a key to developing pest resistance in plants.
A team of K-State researchers found that by using technology to silence a gene in the salivary glands of pea aphids, the insect’s lifespan was cut by more than 50 percent.
“What we found is that when we silenced the most abundant transcript (gene), the aphids died in a few days,” said K-State professor of entomology John Reese.
The findings could lead to new ways to control insects in plants, including such important crops as wheat, alfalfa, soybeans, corn and sorghum, Reese said.
Finding ways to develop insect-resistant crops also brings scientists closer to finding ways to reduce agricultural producers’ dependence on pesticides. That helps the environment and lowers growers’ input costs.
“If we can figure out how to get a plant to prevent the functioning of an insect pest’s gene, we can turn that plant into a non-host for that pest,” Reese said.
Reese was part of a research team that included assistant professor of entomology Yoonseong Park and former graduate student Navdeep Mutti, as well as molecular geneticists.
In the study, which was published in the Journal of Insect Science, the researchers injected siRNA into the salivary glands of adult pea aphids, a pest that can be particularly damaging to alfalfa yields. Aphids treated in this way could not survive more than a few days on plants.
Saliva is important in the interaction between aphids and host plants, Reese said. Proteins, including enzymes of aphid saliva, are thought to play several roles – some of which may overcome a plant’s defenses and possibly stimulate plant defenses in non-host plants.
At stake are billions of dollars worth of crops grown every year in the United States and around the world. For example, a study first published by Iowa State University in 2005 found that soybean aphids alone had the potential to cause approximately 3 million acres to be sprayed – an economic toll on its own – and to cause yield losses of more than 55 million bushels, meaning an economic impact of more than $250 million in an outbreak year.
Information on the Iowa State study can be found at http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/icm/node/53.
The K-State research was supported by a U.S. Department of Agriculture grant and by the Kansas Agricultural Experiment Station.
Crop Removal and Fertilizer Recommendations
2/20/2008 Kurt Lawton
Nearly all farmers have reported excellent yields in the past several years and this improved production has raised some very real questions, says George Rehm, University of Minnesota agronomist. The major one, of course is: should phosphate and/or potash rates be increased because of the higher yields?
Trials at Waseca, Lamberton and Morris, Minnesota provided some information that helps to answer this question. I will focus on three of the treatments in that study and will concentrate on the data collected at Waseca. The study was started in 1999 and completed in 2003.
The control treatment received adequate N, but no phosphate in those years. The initial P test (Bray) 12.8ppm. In the spring of 2004, the P test for this treatment was 9.5 ppm. With yields in the range of 160 to 180 bushels per acre, a reduction in soil test P would be expected.
In a second treatment, an estimated removal of 60 lb. phosphate per acre was applied each year. With no increase in yield in 2003 when compared to the control, the Bray test in the spring of 2004 was 30.8 ppm. This was a substantial increase in soil test P not accompanied by an increase in yield. The 60 lb. phosphate per acre was applied when corn was grown. This rate was reduced to 45 lb./acre soybean was the intended crop.
In a third treatment, University 0f Minnesota banded suggestion for corn and soybeans were used. That rate was 30 lb. phosphate per acre for corn and 15 lb. phosphate per acre for soybeans. In the spring of 2004, the soil test P for this treatment was 11.8 ppm. That’s not much different from the initial soil test value for P (12.8 ppm). The yield from this treatment was almost identical to the yield from the control in 2003 (174.8 bu./acre vs. 172.7 bu./acre) In 2003, the yield from the crop removal treatment was 176.7 bu./acre.
With current prices for phosphate fertilizer, the difference in cost when removal use is compared to banded use is substantial. With no difference in either corn or soybean yield, how can anyone justify using crop removal as a basis for making fertilizer recommendations? The answer is: YOU CAN’T. Using crop removal in fertilizer recommendations does nothing more than increase soil test levels without increasing yields. Since land value is not adjusted for soil test levels, the increase in soil test for P means very little except money spent with no return. I didn’t major in economics, but, I don’t believe that use of that strategy makes any money.
I realize that replacing what the crop moves makes sense. However, we must give the soil credit for supplying some of the needed nutrients. The soil test procedures currently used are designed to predict the amount that a crop might obtain from the soil. If the soil does not supply any plant nutrients to a growing crop, the crop removal concept is valid. However, the soil is an excellent reservoir for some nutrients. So, use of crop removal in arriving at fertilizer recommendations is not a good thing.
Nearly all farmers have reported excellent yields in the past several years and this improved production has raised some very real questions, says George Rehm, University of Minnesota agronomist. The major one, of course is: should phosphate and/or potash rates be increased because of the higher yields?
Trials at Waseca, Lamberton and Morris, Minnesota provided some information that helps to answer this question. I will focus on three of the treatments in that study and will concentrate on the data collected at Waseca. The study was started in 1999 and completed in 2003.
The control treatment received adequate N, but no phosphate in those years. The initial P test (Bray) 12.8ppm. In the spring of 2004, the P test for this treatment was 9.5 ppm. With yields in the range of 160 to 180 bushels per acre, a reduction in soil test P would be expected.
In a second treatment, an estimated removal of 60 lb. phosphate per acre was applied each year. With no increase in yield in 2003 when compared to the control, the Bray test in the spring of 2004 was 30.8 ppm. This was a substantial increase in soil test P not accompanied by an increase in yield. The 60 lb. phosphate per acre was applied when corn was grown. This rate was reduced to 45 lb./acre soybean was the intended crop.
In a third treatment, University 0f Minnesota banded suggestion for corn and soybeans were used. That rate was 30 lb. phosphate per acre for corn and 15 lb. phosphate per acre for soybeans. In the spring of 2004, the soil test P for this treatment was 11.8 ppm. That’s not much different from the initial soil test value for P (12.8 ppm). The yield from this treatment was almost identical to the yield from the control in 2003 (174.8 bu./acre vs. 172.7 bu./acre) In 2003, the yield from the crop removal treatment was 176.7 bu./acre.
With current prices for phosphate fertilizer, the difference in cost when removal use is compared to banded use is substantial. With no difference in either corn or soybean yield, how can anyone justify using crop removal as a basis for making fertilizer recommendations? The answer is: YOU CAN’T. Using crop removal in fertilizer recommendations does nothing more than increase soil test levels without increasing yields. Since land value is not adjusted for soil test levels, the increase in soil test for P means very little except money spent with no return. I didn’t major in economics, but, I don’t believe that use of that strategy makes any money.
I realize that replacing what the crop moves makes sense. However, we must give the soil credit for supplying some of the needed nutrients. The soil test procedures currently used are designed to predict the amount that a crop might obtain from the soil. If the soil does not supply any plant nutrients to a growing crop, the crop removal concept is valid. However, the soil is an excellent reservoir for some nutrients. So, use of crop removal in arriving at fertilizer recommendations is not a good thing.
Ag Biotech Increases Crop Yield and Income Worldwide
2/20/2008 Kurt Lawton
Global use of biotech crops increased again in 2007, with global biotech crop acreage reaching a historic 282 million acres in 23 countries, according to the International Service for the Acquisition of Agri-biotech Applications (ISAAA). Global biotech crop acreage increased nearly 12 percent from 2006, when 252 million acres of biotech crops were grown in 22 countries.
“The reason for such impressive worldwide adoption rates is simple — agricultural biotechnology delivers significant and tangible benefits, all the way from farm to fork,” said Jim Greenwood, president and chief executive officer of the Biotechnology Industry Organization (BIO). “Helping to provide for more sustainable agricultural production, the benefits include a reduction in the environmental impacts of agriculture, increased production on the same amount of acreage, improved food quality, and increased farmer incomes. More than 12 million farmers around the world have chosen biotech crops because of the significant socioeconomic, environmental, and agricultural benefit they provide.”
Notably, the developing world continues to enjoy the benefits of biotech crops most aggressively. ISAAA reports that 11 million small, resource-poor farmers in 12 countries grew biotech crops in 2007, an 18 percent increase from 2006. While there is no easy and singular solution to starvation, many world organizations, such as the World Health Organization’s Food Safety Department and the United Nations (UN) Food and Agriculture Organization have noted that biotechnology can play an important role in expanding and enhancing the global food supply and improving the economics of poor rural communities.
This past year also showed record domestic acceptance of biotech crops according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS), with biotech crop acreage in the United States increasing in 2007 by 5.5 percent over 2006, for a total of 142.5 million acres. In 2007, 91 percent of U.S. acres of soybeans grown were biotech varieties, equivalent to 58.3 million acres. Acres of biotech corn grown in the United States increased by 12 percent in 2007 over 2006, for a total of 67.8 million acres of biotech corn, or 73 percent of all U.S. corn grown. Last year, 87 percent of cotton grown in the United States was biotech varieties — a four percent increase over 2006.
The continued global acceptance of agricultural biotechnology demonstrates the benefits farmers recognize from choosing biotech crops. Agricultural biotechnology has helped enable large shifts in agronomic practices that have led to significant and widespread environmental benefits. No-till agriculture, in limited use prior to 1996, has been widely adopted due to the superior weed control from biotech crops that are able to tolerate the newer class of lower-impact herbicides. In addition, a reduction in plowing has also enabled farmers to significantly reduce the consumption of fuel and decrease greenhouse gas emissions. No-till farming also leads to better conservation of soil and water and a decrease in soil erosion and soil compaction. A 2007 study by the University of Washington showed that no-plow farming methods reduce erosion to almost natural, geologic rates. Plow-less farms lost an average of 0.02 mm of soil each year, an erosion rate close to the natural geologic rates of 0.03 mm per year. In contrast, annual soil loss on plow-based farms average 1.5 mm of erosion. The study also found that on average, conventional farms lost soil about 90 times faster than new soil is produced.
Biotechnology has also made possible pest control measures that are more precisely targeted at specific problem pests while dramatically reducing impacts on non-target species. Biotech varieties have dramatically reduced farmers’ reliance on pesticide applications. Globally it is estimated that pesticide applications decreased six percent in the interval from 1996-2004, eliminating 379 million pounds of pesticide applications.
2007 also saw the introduction of several important regulations for plant biotechnology domestically and internationally that support smooth trade transactions, as well as support continued research into new biotech plant varieties.
Most significantly, the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) released a draft programmatic Environmental Impact Statement (EIS), an important first step in the review and revision of agricultural biotechnology regulations in the United States, commonly known as APHIS Part 340 regulations. The revision of agricultural biotechnology regulations is essential to maintaining strong oversight as technology progresses and provides newer and more beneficial products.
In March and May, the USDA and U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) respectively announced their interim policy and final guidance for low level presence (or adventitious presence), which is the unintentional and incidental commingling of trace amounts of one type of seed, grain, or food product with another. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) previously announced its early food safety assessment for low level presence in 2006. The United States’ science-based policies on low level presence have provided a model for the Codex Alimnetarius Commission, the international food standards body. In September, the Codex Ad Hoc Intergovernmental Task Force on Foods Derived from Biotechnology reached consensus on and progressed an annex to the Codex Plant Guidelines that addresses safety assessments in situations of low level presence. Adoption of the annex is expected in 2008, signifying the first international standard for low level presence.
BIO continued to encourage the responsible management of plant biotechnology by introducing Excellence Through StewardshipSM, the first industry-coordinated stewardship program. Excellence Through Stewardship is an industry quality management program designed to enhance pant product integrity and stewardship. This is the first program that meets today’s product stewardship challenges and provides a strong quality management program (QMP) for the full life cycle of biotech plants into the future.
Also in 2007, USDA announced a complimentary Biotechnology Quality Management System (BQMS) program, intended to focus on improving compliance with field trials, using a quality management approach audited by USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service. The BQMS program centers around USDA providing compliance assistance through guidelines to entities on how to implement a quality management system for purposes of compliance with confined field trials.
Continued Global Acceptance of Agricultural Biotechnology
In 2007, according to ISAAA, a record 23 countries planted biotech crops, with an additional 29 countries allowing imports of biotech food and animal feed. Argentina grew the second largest amount of biotech crops, after the United States, with nearly 47 million acres. India also became the fifth largest producer of biotech crops worldwide, surpassing biotech crop acreage in China. ISAAA reports that biotech crop yields in India and China increased by up to 50 percent and 10 percent, respectively and reduced insecticide applications in both countries by up to 50 percent or more. This past year also saw the introduction of new crops; China also reported planting 250,000 biotech insect-resistant poplar trees in an effort to contribute to reforestation efforts.
Biotech crop acreage is expected to increase in 2008 as two Australian states, New South Wales and Victoria, announced they will lift their bans on biotech crop plantings this year. Additionally, in 2007, Brazil approved, for the first time, seed sales of biotech corn varieties. In 2007 and early 2008, the European Union continued to work towards the acceptance of biotech crops; last year, the European Court of Justice rejected an Austrian ban on biotech crops, and in early 2008, the European Commission referred Poland and its ban on biotech crops to the European Court of Justice.
This past year also saw increasing approvals worldwide for field trials or new biotech varieties:
Brazilian researchers began field trials for three varieties of biotech sugarcane with increased levels of sucrose.
In 2007, Uganda began field trials for biotech sweet banana plants that are resistant to bacterial wilt and Black Sigatoka fungal disease. The biotech varieties are expected to save up to 50 percent of yields which are typically destroyed by pests and diseases. In early 2008, Uganda also approved field trials for biotech cotton.
New Zealand approved field trials of biotech brassica vegetables, including broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale, that are resistant to caterpillar pests such as cabbage white butterfly and diamond-back moth.
Australia officials approved field trials for a drought-tolerant biotech wheat.
India approved the first large-scale field trial of a biotech food crop — a biotech variety of the brinjal vegetable. The biotech variety is expected to have increased yield as well as decrease the need for pesticide applications.
Swiss officials approved three biotech wheat trials for varieties resistant to fungal diseases.
Japanese researchers began field trials for biotech blue roses.
Research and development into new biotech varieties with increased farmer and consumer benefits also took place worldwide:
U.S. researchers last year developed a biotech tomato that expresses 25 times more folate than conventional tomatoes. Other U.S. scientists announced the development of a biotech tobacco plant that produces insulin, and has demonstrated promising results in diabetic mice. American scientists also developed biotech plants capable of surviving extreme drought, and which thrive on far less water. The researchers were able to enhance the drought-tolerance of the plants by delaying the cell death phase plants’ leaves go through during a drought.
Italian researchers announced the development of a new potato variety with enriched beta-carotene; the pro-vitamin A content of the new biotech potato increased 3.6-fold over conventional varieties.
South African researchers developed a biotech corn variety that is resistant to maize streak virus (MSV), a virus endemic to Africa that stunts the growth of maize and leads to abnormal corn development.
Taiwanese researchers announced the development of a biotech eucalyptus tree that ingests up to three times more carbon dioxide than conventional varieties. Scientists believe the new biotech variety could have the potential to help reduce greenhouse gasses and global warming. The biotech eucalyptus also produces less lignin and more cellulose.
In 2008, New Zealand researchers announced the development of a tear-free onion through gene-silencing technology.
In 2008, American researchers announced the development of a biotech carrot with 41 percent more calcium than conventional carrots.
Animal Biotechnology
While plant biotechnology continued to impart benefits to farmers and consumer worldwide in 2007, research and regulatory advances in animal biotechnology also continued. Most significantly, Codex advanced a guideline for food safety risk assessments of genetically engineered animals, the first international standard of its kind. Final adoption of this guideline is expected in 2008. Domestically, in early 2008, the FDA published is final risk assessment on the safety of meat and milk products from animal clones and their offspring; the European Food Safety Authority published similar health safety conclusions in early 2008 as well.
As part of the biotechnology industry’s commitment to responsible management of agricultural biotechnology, in December 2007, the major animal cloning technology providers announced the formation of a tracking program using a supply chain management system that will allow food companies to identify animal clones. The program was developed to facilitate marketing claims and works through the use of a national registry. This system will help ensure a smooth transition of meat and milk products from the offspring of animal clones into the U.S. food supply.
Numerous research advances in animal biotechnology continued to 2007:
U.S. researchers announced the production of genetically engineered cattle that cannot develop prion proteins, which can result in the degenerative disease bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE). This research has positive implications in benefits for consumers both for human health and food safety.
Cloning technology continued to advance worldwide in 2007: Korean researchers cloned the world’s first poodle; China cloned its first Boer goat; a species from southern Africa that grows extremely fast and yields more meat than other goats or sheep; and Australian researchers cloned their first beef cow, a Brahman cow.
The International Horse Genome Sequencing Project published the first draft of the horse genome sequence for use by biomedical and veterinary researchers. The project sequenced 2.7 billion DNA base pairs of a Thoroughbred mare.
BIO represents more than 1,150 biotechnology companies, academic institutions, state biotechnology centers and related organizations across the United States and in more than 30 other nations. BIO members are involved in the research and development of innovative healthcare, agricultural, industrial and environmental biotechnology technologies. BIO also produces the annual BIO International Convention, the world’s largest gathering of the biotechnology industry, along with industry-leading investor and partnering meetings held around the world.
Threat of Asian Soybean Rust Continues to be Monitored
3/18/2008
It’s been four years since the arrival of the soybean rust pathogen in the US, and as the planting season nears, attention will turn back to tracking the threat of soybean rust with the aid of USDA’s watchful eye. In order to monitor the threat, USDA created a real-time tracking system called the USDA Plant Information Platform for Extension and Education (PIPE). The plan includes a sentinel plot system, a spore tracking system and climate-based epidemiological models that feed into it. More than 475 people were involved in the sentinel plot system in 2007, and more than 13,412 observations were uploaded to the PIPE Web site, according to an article from USAgnet. Regarding soybean rust control, the reports on fungicide trials held in two U.S. and four South American locations in 2007 were positive. Most fungicides tested were reported to be "very effective" in controlling Asian soybean rust, the article stated. Only when disease pressure was very high did some products perform better than others. Researchers confirmed that good coverage into the mid- and lower canopy is critical, as well as the timing of the fungicide application – especially if soybeans are still in early growth stages.Although fungi can and do develop resistance to the triazole and strobilurin fungicides used for soybean rust, there are factors about the U.S. situation that helps lower the risk. First, Phakopsora pachyrhizi, the soybean rust pathogen, does not overwinter in most soybean production areas of the U.S. Secondly, only one or two sprays – if any – are needed each season.Ultimately, as with all rust diseases, it will be the employment of resistant soybean varieties that will provide the most effective and stable long-term control of Asian soybean rust. Soybean breeders and plant pathologists are now in their fourth year of field-testing resistant soybean germ plasm in the United States. In 2007, they evaluated 703 soybean lines in seven different locations and reported a clear sorting of resistant reactions compared to susceptible soybean varieties. Several genes for resistance have been identified.Asian soybean rust was found in 19 states and 301 counties (thought to be a conservative estimate) in 2007. Although disease pressure was high in some southern areas, notably Alabama, Louisiana and Georgia, it was generally held in check by widespread freezing temperatures in the South during April that reduced the amount of spores, and also by the 2007 drought. The northernmost find in the United States was in Hancock County, Iowa, in October. By November it was also detected for the first time in Ontario, Canada.
Proper Soil Key for Plant Establishment
3/18/2008
Soybeans are hardy plants well adapted to a variety of soils and soil conditions. However, producing the best quality crop and maximum yields will require top quality soil, according to the National Soybean Research Laboratory at the University of Illinois in Urbana-Champaign, Ill. Soil is one of the first things to consider when planting a crop, according to a NSRL article. A healthy, fertile, workable soil will actually provide seedlings and growing plants with protection from adverse weather including cold, frost, drought, excess water, and protection from pests and diseases. Ideal soil for optimum soybean production is a loose, well-drained loam. Many fields have tight, high clay soil that becomes waterlogged when it rains. When the soil dries out, a hard crust surface may form, which acts as a barrier to emerging seedlings.These high clay soils are low in humus and may have imbalance in mineral nutrients, the article stated. Also, these soils may have few beneficial soil organisms (bacteria, fungi, algae, protozoa, earthworms and others). High clay soils may be amended with peat moss, sphagnum, organic mulch to increase the humus content. Sand may be added to loosen and aerate the soil and allow better drainage.The advantages of loose, well-aerated soil include (1) movement of air to roots and nitrogen-fixing root nodules, (2) increased water-holding capacity with adequate drainage, (3) reduced erosion, (4) reduced weed populations, (5) maintenance of steady and balanced nutrients to roots and balance pH, and (6) increased potential to protect roots from harmful nematodes, insects pests, and pathogens.
Kamis, 01 Mei 2008
Apple Season in America
Written by Mario Ritter Apples are the second most valuable fruit crop in the United States, after oranges. Autumn is a time when fresh apples are everywhere. They are not native to the country. Research shows that apples came from Central Asia. But they are believed to have been grown in America since the early sixteen hundreds.Washington State, in the Pacific Northwest, produces the country’s biggest apple crop. New York and Michigan are also big producers. Among nations, China is the biggest grower followed by the United States and Turkey. This year, American growers expected to harvest nearly four thousand five hundred million kilograms of apples. That is a little less than last year’s record harvest.Apples are a member of the rose family. Apples come in reds, greens and yellows. About two thousand five hundred kinds grow in the United States. Three times that number are grown around the world. The University of Illinois Extension service says one hundred varieties are grown most commonly in the United States. The most popular are the Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, Gala, Fuji and Granny Smith. In the United States, three fourths of apples are eaten fresh. Some are made into sweet foods like apple pie. The rest are processed to make products such as apple juice, apple cider, apple sauce and vinegar.A popular saying goes: "An apple a day keeps the doctor away." Apples are a healthy food. For one thing, they are high in fiber, mainly in the skin.Apple trees flower in late spring. Late blossoming avoids freezing weather. So farmers can grow apples farther north than most other fruits. In North America, apples can be gown in all fifty states and Canada. Johnny Appleseed was born in Massachusetts in seventeen seventy-four. He grew apple trees on land he owned in Ohio and Indiana. He traveled with settlers as they moved West. He supplied them with apple seeds and young trees and, it is said, religion. Johnny Appleseed was an early American hero. His real name was John Chapman. Americans might not know the story of John Chapman, but almost everyone has heard of Johnny Appleseed. VOA Special English Agriculture Report
Wedding Bouquets for Spring
Mother and daughter team Liz and Claire Cowling are well known for their particular style of English floristry and in their latest venture the take a seasonal approach to bridal bouquetsWhen you think of classical English style wedding bouquets - what springs to mind? Could it be a particular flower? A rose perhaps? Or perhaps you imagine sumptuous scents and textures from an English country garden. 'Le style Anglais' or the English style is fairly well documented in European minds and although it often involves some aspect of the aforementioned it almost automatically refers to good quality wiring!Liz and Claire Cowling, the mother and daughter team from Thrive, are well-known in the UK floristry industry for their 'English' style bouquets but, in fact, this talented family have moved the concept further. In their latest book, Wedding Bouquets for Spring, they have produced the first in a series of seasonal books which shows their very individual style of presentation. Claire Cowling's work has featured in the Collections section of every Fusion Flowers Weddings magazine - a feature that no other designer has achieved and this is a measure of how highly we regard their designs. Obviously aimed at students and tutors, their gift for creating romantic bouquets has once again produced some beautiful designs. In Issue 41 of Fusion Flowers magazine, Liz and Claire have allowed us a preview of their book which is now available through the Fusion Flowers Marketplace. Every double page spread shows a bridal design together with details of materials, time scales, hints and tips etc.We know that this is bound to become a best selling book and are very grateful for their permission to allow our readers a look at their work.
Rabu, 30 April 2008
Stop the Crape Murder!
Hideous crimes are being committed all ever Texas, some in our own front yards and many right in front of our local businesses. Unfortunately, many have turned a blind eye to the ongoing massacre. Not me! I can take it no more.
I am officially forming an advocacy group for plant's rights. They can't speak, so I'm going to speak for them. My first mission…to stop Crape Murder!
Lagerstroemia indica: The Crapemyrtle. A native of China. The "Lilac of the South". The most popular flowering tree in the southern United States. Introduced to the U.S. by Frenchman Andre Michaux to South Carolina around 1786. Perhaps the most beautifully branching flowering tree in the world.
Crapemyrtles are among the toughest, most adaptable, and showiest plants that we can grow in our Texas landscapes. They have very few pests. They bloom all summer long. They require no supplemental irrigation. They have exfoliating bark that reveals spectacular smooth trunks. And they happen to have a branching structure that any floral designer would crave. They pretty much do every thing but mow the lawn for us.
But for some reason, a mysterious reason that I haven't quite solved, the majority of the "gardeners" (and ALL of the landscape crews) in Texas have made it a horrid ritual of butchering them.
Clip this portion of the article out and take it directly to your spouse, maintenance person, or nurseryman. I know of NO educated horticulturist or arborist that endorses the practice of topping crapemyrtles or any ornamental trees for that matter. Go ahead. Pick up the phone. Call Neil Sperry. Call Dr. Bill Welch. Call the National Arboretum! You WILL NOT find any plant expert that will condone or recommend this practice.
Then why do we do it? Actually I have several theories. But I'm not going to share any of them with you for fear that you might some how feel justified in your arboreal disfigurement.
I will tell you why not too, however. First of all it leaves horrible scars and wounds that last forever. That's correct, FOREVER. I can show you exactly where any crapemyrtle on earth was topped. It's a "teenage tattoo" that can never be removed. It also makes a profusion of smaller branches resulting in a lack of proportion. All trees have a characteristic shape. It just so happens that crapemyrtles have one of the most beautiful. Topping does create larger blooms, though fewer of them. Unfortunately these larger blooms on new shoots have a tendency to flop over and droop after summer rains (remember when it used to rain in the summer?). And finally it's down right ugly. We don't hack on dogwoods, redbuds, or Japanese maples. So why do we pick out the prettiest one of all to maim? Surely it's not a "school girl" jealousy thing. How sick can we be to pick out the prettiest belle at the ball and scratch her face? This practice may look appropriate behind a chain link fence in a Mississippi trailer park, but I can assure you it is not appropriate for any landscape that you intend to be admired. Some of the most beautiful homes in Texas are now marred by embarrassing crapemyrtles. On the other hand, take a trip to Baton Rough, Mobile, or Charleston. They have an enduring admiration for their beautiful crapemyrtles and wouldn't think of undoing what nature has perfected.
The only pruning crapemyrtles require is to thin out the trunks on young trees leaving somewhere around 3 to 7 permanents trunks. The fewer you have, the more you can admire their shape and smooth texture. Each year around early spring, all you do is remove any new suckers that appear from the ground or from you main trunks. That's it. Yes, if the tree is small you can remove the seedpods, but realize that this is purely for aesthetic reason. Removing dried pods during the winter doesn't promote any more bloom during the summer. Removing them during the summer does promote faster re-bloom however. This nonsense of pruning back to pencil size wood comes from recommendations from the 1960's and is outdated. People apparently had a lot more free time on their hands then. There's no telling how many thousands of dollars are wasted on incorrect pruning of crapemyrtles. To be quite honest an unpruned crapemyrtle is almost always superior in appearance to a "professionally" pruned one. Some things in nature are hard to improve on.
In my personal opinion, any landscape maintenance firm involved in this practice should be immediately fired! They are wasting your time and money and obviously don't care what's best for your plants or your landscape. If they took the time to educate themselves through seminars and reading, they would earn your money through more horticulturally sound practices.
I'm quite sure that the few of you left reading this soapbox diatribe can't wait to tell me what many have in the past. "But Greg, they got to big!" Much better to cut it to the ground and start over, or pull it out entirely, than to maim it. Most folks don't realize (but should) that there are many, many, cultivars of crapemyrtles that have an ultimate height range from 3 feet to 30 feet. For heavens sakes, don't plant a 30 foot crapemyrtle in a space designed for a 10 foot one. Check with a reputable nursery. If a tree type is too large, there are many smaller types available, including mildew resistant ones. There are a number of improved semi-dwarf cultivars in the 6-8 foot range including Acoma (white), Hopi (pink), Tonto (fuchsia), and Velma's Royal Delight (purple) that make outstanding small trees. Trees that NEVER need topping, that is.
Thanks to King's Nursery and Greenleaf Nursery, I have planted a collection of commercially available crapemyrtle cultivars in the commuter parking lot on University Drive on the SFA Univsersity Campus. This will be one of the only places in the state where gardeners can come see what each named cultivar is SUPPOSED to look like, a sort of "abuse free" zone if you will. They won't be sprayed, irrigated, or pruned. They'll just stand there minding their own business, looking pretty in pink (and other colors as well, of course).
There have been articles on this same subject in Southern Living, Neil Sperry's Gardens, and other southern magazines and newspapers. Unfortunately, the problem here seems to be getting exponentially worse each year. I can only assume that gardeners in Texas either don't read, or don't care. Please prove me wrong. STOP THE CRAPE MURDER!
I am officially forming an advocacy group for plant's rights. They can't speak, so I'm going to speak for them. My first mission…to stop Crape Murder!
Lagerstroemia indica: The Crapemyrtle. A native of China. The "Lilac of the South". The most popular flowering tree in the southern United States. Introduced to the U.S. by Frenchman Andre Michaux to South Carolina around 1786. Perhaps the most beautifully branching flowering tree in the world.
Crapemyrtles are among the toughest, most adaptable, and showiest plants that we can grow in our Texas landscapes. They have very few pests. They bloom all summer long. They require no supplemental irrigation. They have exfoliating bark that reveals spectacular smooth trunks. And they happen to have a branching structure that any floral designer would crave. They pretty much do every thing but mow the lawn for us.
But for some reason, a mysterious reason that I haven't quite solved, the majority of the "gardeners" (and ALL of the landscape crews) in Texas have made it a horrid ritual of butchering them.
Clip this portion of the article out and take it directly to your spouse, maintenance person, or nurseryman. I know of NO educated horticulturist or arborist that endorses the practice of topping crapemyrtles or any ornamental trees for that matter. Go ahead. Pick up the phone. Call Neil Sperry. Call Dr. Bill Welch. Call the National Arboretum! You WILL NOT find any plant expert that will condone or recommend this practice.
Then why do we do it? Actually I have several theories. But I'm not going to share any of them with you for fear that you might some how feel justified in your arboreal disfigurement.
I will tell you why not too, however. First of all it leaves horrible scars and wounds that last forever. That's correct, FOREVER. I can show you exactly where any crapemyrtle on earth was topped. It's a "teenage tattoo" that can never be removed. It also makes a profusion of smaller branches resulting in a lack of proportion. All trees have a characteristic shape. It just so happens that crapemyrtles have one of the most beautiful. Topping does create larger blooms, though fewer of them. Unfortunately these larger blooms on new shoots have a tendency to flop over and droop after summer rains (remember when it used to rain in the summer?). And finally it's down right ugly. We don't hack on dogwoods, redbuds, or Japanese maples. So why do we pick out the prettiest one of all to maim? Surely it's not a "school girl" jealousy thing. How sick can we be to pick out the prettiest belle at the ball and scratch her face? This practice may look appropriate behind a chain link fence in a Mississippi trailer park, but I can assure you it is not appropriate for any landscape that you intend to be admired. Some of the most beautiful homes in Texas are now marred by embarrassing crapemyrtles. On the other hand, take a trip to Baton Rough, Mobile, or Charleston. They have an enduring admiration for their beautiful crapemyrtles and wouldn't think of undoing what nature has perfected.
The only pruning crapemyrtles require is to thin out the trunks on young trees leaving somewhere around 3 to 7 permanents trunks. The fewer you have, the more you can admire their shape and smooth texture. Each year around early spring, all you do is remove any new suckers that appear from the ground or from you main trunks. That's it. Yes, if the tree is small you can remove the seedpods, but realize that this is purely for aesthetic reason. Removing dried pods during the winter doesn't promote any more bloom during the summer. Removing them during the summer does promote faster re-bloom however. This nonsense of pruning back to pencil size wood comes from recommendations from the 1960's and is outdated. People apparently had a lot more free time on their hands then. There's no telling how many thousands of dollars are wasted on incorrect pruning of crapemyrtles. To be quite honest an unpruned crapemyrtle is almost always superior in appearance to a "professionally" pruned one. Some things in nature are hard to improve on.
In my personal opinion, any landscape maintenance firm involved in this practice should be immediately fired! They are wasting your time and money and obviously don't care what's best for your plants or your landscape. If they took the time to educate themselves through seminars and reading, they would earn your money through more horticulturally sound practices.
I'm quite sure that the few of you left reading this soapbox diatribe can't wait to tell me what many have in the past. "But Greg, they got to big!" Much better to cut it to the ground and start over, or pull it out entirely, than to maim it. Most folks don't realize (but should) that there are many, many, cultivars of crapemyrtles that have an ultimate height range from 3 feet to 30 feet. For heavens sakes, don't plant a 30 foot crapemyrtle in a space designed for a 10 foot one. Check with a reputable nursery. If a tree type is too large, there are many smaller types available, including mildew resistant ones. There are a number of improved semi-dwarf cultivars in the 6-8 foot range including Acoma (white), Hopi (pink), Tonto (fuchsia), and Velma's Royal Delight (purple) that make outstanding small trees. Trees that NEVER need topping, that is.
Thanks to King's Nursery and Greenleaf Nursery, I have planted a collection of commercially available crapemyrtle cultivars in the commuter parking lot on University Drive on the SFA Univsersity Campus. This will be one of the only places in the state where gardeners can come see what each named cultivar is SUPPOSED to look like, a sort of "abuse free" zone if you will. They won't be sprayed, irrigated, or pruned. They'll just stand there minding their own business, looking pretty in pink (and other colors as well, of course).
There have been articles on this same subject in Southern Living, Neil Sperry's Gardens, and other southern magazines and newspapers. Unfortunately, the problem here seems to be getting exponentially worse each year. I can only assume that gardeners in Texas either don't read, or don't care. Please prove me wrong. STOP THE CRAPE MURDER!
Paul Aden Hosta Introductions/Breeding
Without a doubt, Paul Aden of Baldwin, NY is the king of commercial hostas. Regardless of whether Aden bred the hosta, or acquired it from others, Aden knew a good garden variety when he saw it. I thought it would be interesting to assemble a list of Aden's own hybrids, created from the registration records. This list does not include plants that we know Aden acquired from others.
Please note that a number of the plants in the trade do not match Aden's original description. Whether another plant was later substituted by Aden using the original name, or the original plant was lost in the production stream is unclear. Unfortunately, Aden is quite secretive to the point of refusing to discuss or attempt to clarify these confusions. All we have to go on is this historic account of his breeding, as based on the registration forms that he filled out himself. I hope this will be of some help to prospective hosta breeders.
* denotes fragrance
1974 Blue Cadet (#359) 1974 (tokudama hybrid)/blue Gold Cadet (#381) 1974 (unknown)/gold Gold Regal (#392) 1974 (unknown)/gold Sun Glow 1974 (#370) (Aspen Gold x self)/gold
1976 #270 is Beatrice or sdg/#275 is sieboldiana type gold Blue Fan Dancer 1976 (tokudama hybrid)/blue Blue Heaven 1976 (Blue Cadet x 355)/blue Blue Velvet 1976 (tokudama hybrid x tokudama hybrid)/blue Blue Vision 1976 (355 x 353)/blue Bold Ribbons 1976 (unknown)/white edge Chartreuse Wedge 1976 (Green Wedge x self)/green Chartreuse Wiggles 1976 (Wogon hybrid)/gold Golden Prayers 1976 (381 x Golden Waffles)/gold Golden Rajah 1976 (Aspen gold hyb x tokud. aureonebulosa sdg)/gold Golden Ruffles 1976 (Gold Cadet 381 x 388)/gold Golden Waffles 1976 (Gold Cadet 381 x 388)/gold Green Wedge 1976 (nigrescens x ?)/green High Fat Cream 1976 (270 x 275)/gold streaked Peek A Boo 1976 (Tokudama Aureonebulosa x 355)/blue Resonance 1976 (270 x 275)/white edge Wahoo 1976 (Tokudama Aureonebulosa x Tokudama Flavocircinalis)/strk Yellow Splash 1976 (270 x 275)/streaked
1977 Blue Tiers 1977 (tokudama hybrid x tokudama hybrid)/blue
1978 Blue Umbrellas 1978 (tokudama hybrid x sieboldiana elegans)/blue Big Daddy 1978 (robusta variegated mutation)/blue Big Mama 1978 (Blue Tiers x Blue Angel)/blue Blue Whirls 1978 (hybrid x Blue Vision)/blue Bold One 1978 (robusta variegated x Green Gold)/streaked Celebration 1978 (378 x 322)/white center City Lights 1978 (White Vision x Golden Prayers) Debutante 1978 (Wahoo x Flamboyant)/streak Estelle Aden 1978 (Golden Waffles x Gold Cup)/gold Fascination 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Flamboyant 1978 (X Ray treatment gold sdg)/streaked Floradora 1978 (nakaiana x longipes hybrid)/green Flow Swirls 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Gala 1978 (tardiflora x self)/green w/gold edge Gene Summers 1978 (Flamboyant x Intrigue)/streaked Gold Cup 1978 (tokudama aureonebulosa x Golden Prayers)/gold Gold Edger 1978 (Blue Cadet x self)/gold Gold Pan 1978 (Golden Waffles x Gold Cup)/gold Green Sheen 1978 (Green Wedge x Chartreuse Wedge)/green Halo 1978 (Flamboyant x Estelle Aden)/gold w/cream margin Intrigue 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Jambalaya 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Julia Hardy 1978 (tokudama x Big Mama)/blue Ledi lantis 1978 (Gold Cup x Golden Waffles)/gold Little Aurora 1978 (Tokudama Aureonebulosa x Golden Waffles)/gold Love Pat 1978 (Blue Velvet x Blue Vision)/blue Midas Touch 1978 (Gold Cup x Golden Waffles)/gold Neat Splash 1978 (Yellow Splash x fortunei robusta hybrid)/streak Reversed 1978 (sieboldiana hybrid mutation)/white center Royal Rainbow 1978 (Bold One x Flamboyant)/streaked Serendipity 1978 (Blue Cadet x tokudama)/blue Squiggles 1978 (Yellow Splash x Neat Splash)/streaked Swoosh 1978 (Yellow Splash x Neat Splash)/streaked Tot Tot 1978 (Blue Cadet x venusta)/blue True Blue 1978 (Chartreuse Wedge x (nigrescnes x Blue Vision)/blue White Colossus 1978 (Bold One x Flamboyant)/white center White Magic 1978 (White Christmas x Flamboyant)/white center White Vision 1978 (Sun Glow x Gold Cup)/gold Yellow Waves 1978 (Wogon x Chartreuse Wiggles)/gold Zounds 1978 (Golden Waffles x Golden Prayers)/gold
1979 Green Fountain 1979 (Green Wedge x longipes)/green Ground Master 1979 (Yellow Splash x Neat Splash)/white margin True Love 1979 (Blue Vision x True Blue)/blue Wide Brim 1979 (Bold One x Bold Ribbons)/white margin
1980 Amy Aden 1980 (Fascination x High Fat Cream)/chartr w/white edge Bravo 1980 (Reversed x Fascination)/white,chartreuse,streaked Citation 1980 (Vicky Aden x ?)/gold w/white edge Color Fantasy 1980 (Gala hybrid)/cream, chartreuse, green Color Glory 1980 (Fascination x Intrigue)/streaked Garden Magic 1980 (Intrigue x sibling)/steaked Loleta Powell 1980 (Fascination x Intrigue)/streaked Look See 1980 (Royal Rainbow sdg)/streaked Love Joy 1980 (Fascination sdg)/streaked Snow Cap 1980 (Wide Brim x Royal Rainbow)/white margin Splish Splash 1980 (Fascination x Intrigue)/streaked Sum and Substance 1980 (unknown)/chartreuse Sunshine Kid 1980 (Fascination x High Fat Cream)/streaked Vicki Aden 1980 (Flamboyant sdg)/streaked Whoopee 1980 (Flamboyant x Fascination)/streaked
1982 Color Accord 1982 (Fascination x ?)/green, chartreuse streaked Comeuppance 1982 (Vicky Aden x Fascination)/streaked Counter Point 1982 (Francee hybrid) streaked w/ white margin Double Edge 1982 (Flamboyant x Fascination)/green w/white margin *Fragrant Bouquet 1982 (Fascination x Fragrant Summer)/streaked *Fragrant Candelabra 1982 (Fragrant Bouquet hybrid)/streaked Fragrant Gold 1982 (Sum and Substance hybrid)/gold *Fragrant Tot 1982 (Amy Aden hybrid)/streaked Jim Cooper 1982 (Sum and Substance hybrid)/gold Mikado 1982 (montana Aureo-marginata x Big Sam)/green Rock Master 1982 (venusta hybrid)/blue Shade Beauty 1982 (sdg x Golden Tardiana)/gold w/white edge Shade Master 1982 (White Vision x Golden Rajah)/gold Shining Tot 1982 (venusta x Rock Master)/green Thumb Nail 1982 (venusta hybrid)/green
1983 Blessings 1983 (yellow tardiana hybrid)/gold w/ white margin Blue Line 1983 (412 x pulchella mutation)/blue Dixie Joy 1983 (Gala x Halo)/gold w/green flecks *Shallmar 1983 (Fragrant Bouquet x Fragrant Candelabra)/gold w/white
1986 Blue Angel 1986 (365 x 361)/blue Bright Glow 1986 (380 x 382)/gold Brim Cup 1986 (392 x Wide Brim)/white edge Daybreak 1986 (unknown Japan)/gold Fall Bouquet 1986 (322 x 324)/green Gaiety 1986 (421 x Blessings)/gold w/white margin Grand Master 1986 (unknown)/white edge *Invincible 1986 (314 x 802)/green Just So 1986 (421 x Little Aurora)/gold w/green edge Knockout 1986 (unknown)/white edge Lights Up 1986 (519 x Chartreuse Wiggles)/gold Pizzazz 1986 (unknown)/white edge Shade Fanfare 1986 (Flamboyant sport)/gold w/white edge *So Sweet 1986 (Fragrant Bouquet x 462)/cream edge Spritzer 1986 (349 x Green Fountain)/gold w/green edge Sun Power 1986 (217 x 219)/gold Vanilla Cream 1986 (456 x Little Aurora)/gold White Charger 1986 (614 x 618)/green
1987 Green Line 1987 (Just So x Little Aurora)/gold High Kicker 1987 (pycnophylla hybrid)/green Peace 1987 (Blue Hugger x Love Pat)/white margin *Sassy 1987 (Art Shane x Invincible)/white edge *Showtime 1987 (Fragrant Bouquet x Fragrant Candelabra)/white margin Sitting Pretty 1987 (Reiko x Amy Aden)/gold w/green margin Sparky 1987 (Amy Aden x pulchella)/green w/yellow margin Stiletto 1987 (Amy Aden x pulchella variegated)/green w/white edge Two Step 1987 (Embroidery x Aden 341)/green w/yellow edge
1988 Excitation 1988 (Citation mutation)/gold *Fragrant Blue 1988 (8413 x 8270)/blue *Sweetie 1988 (Fragrant Bouquet x Fragrant Candelabra)/white edge
1990 Abba Alive 1990 (81-B1 x 83-B4)/white margin Abba Aloft 1990 (Sun Power Sport)/green center w/gold edge Abba At Large 1990 (Sun Power Sport) gold center w/green edge Abba Blue Plus 1990 (81-B1 x 82-B5)/white margin Abba Fit 1990 (81-B3 x 83-B4)/white margin *Abba Fragrant Cloud 1990 (80-F3 x 78-F5)/white margin Abba Little Showoff 1990 (Amy Aden x 78-Y2)/chartreuse w/green edge Abba Nova 1990 (78-G5 x 80-B2)/white margin Abba Spellbinder 1990 (77-B6 x 79-B1)/blue w/chartreuse margin Abba Tops 1990 (77-G4 x 78-G3)/green w/white edge
Unregistered Abba Alight Abba Allegro Abba Blue Prayers Abba Lilian Cannon *Abba Fragrant Century *Abba Fragrant Cloud *Abba Fragrant High *Abba Fragrant Lights Abba Irrestisible Abba Rainbow Abba Soulmate Abba White Abba Windows Center Island
Please note that a number of the plants in the trade do not match Aden's original description. Whether another plant was later substituted by Aden using the original name, or the original plant was lost in the production stream is unclear. Unfortunately, Aden is quite secretive to the point of refusing to discuss or attempt to clarify these confusions. All we have to go on is this historic account of his breeding, as based on the registration forms that he filled out himself. I hope this will be of some help to prospective hosta breeders.
* denotes fragrance
1974 Blue Cadet (#359) 1974 (tokudama hybrid)/blue Gold Cadet (#381) 1974 (unknown)/gold Gold Regal (#392) 1974 (unknown)/gold Sun Glow 1974 (#370) (Aspen Gold x self)/gold
1976 #270 is Beatrice or sdg/#275 is sieboldiana type gold Blue Fan Dancer 1976 (tokudama hybrid)/blue Blue Heaven 1976 (Blue Cadet x 355)/blue Blue Velvet 1976 (tokudama hybrid x tokudama hybrid)/blue Blue Vision 1976 (355 x 353)/blue Bold Ribbons 1976 (unknown)/white edge Chartreuse Wedge 1976 (Green Wedge x self)/green Chartreuse Wiggles 1976 (Wogon hybrid)/gold Golden Prayers 1976 (381 x Golden Waffles)/gold Golden Rajah 1976 (Aspen gold hyb x tokud. aureonebulosa sdg)/gold Golden Ruffles 1976 (Gold Cadet 381 x 388)/gold Golden Waffles 1976 (Gold Cadet 381 x 388)/gold Green Wedge 1976 (nigrescens x ?)/green High Fat Cream 1976 (270 x 275)/gold streaked Peek A Boo 1976 (Tokudama Aureonebulosa x 355)/blue Resonance 1976 (270 x 275)/white edge Wahoo 1976 (Tokudama Aureonebulosa x Tokudama Flavocircinalis)/strk Yellow Splash 1976 (270 x 275)/streaked
1977 Blue Tiers 1977 (tokudama hybrid x tokudama hybrid)/blue
1978 Blue Umbrellas 1978 (tokudama hybrid x sieboldiana elegans)/blue Big Daddy 1978 (robusta variegated mutation)/blue Big Mama 1978 (Blue Tiers x Blue Angel)/blue Blue Whirls 1978 (hybrid x Blue Vision)/blue Bold One 1978 (robusta variegated x Green Gold)/streaked Celebration 1978 (378 x 322)/white center City Lights 1978 (White Vision x Golden Prayers) Debutante 1978 (Wahoo x Flamboyant)/streak Estelle Aden 1978 (Golden Waffles x Gold Cup)/gold Fascination 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Flamboyant 1978 (X Ray treatment gold sdg)/streaked Floradora 1978 (nakaiana x longipes hybrid)/green Flow Swirls 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Gala 1978 (tardiflora x self)/green w/gold edge Gene Summers 1978 (Flamboyant x Intrigue)/streaked Gold Cup 1978 (tokudama aureonebulosa x Golden Prayers)/gold Gold Edger 1978 (Blue Cadet x self)/gold Gold Pan 1978 (Golden Waffles x Gold Cup)/gold Green Sheen 1978 (Green Wedge x Chartreuse Wedge)/green Halo 1978 (Flamboyant x Estelle Aden)/gold w/cream margin Intrigue 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Jambalaya 1978 (Flamboyant x High Fat Cream)/streaked Julia Hardy 1978 (tokudama x Big Mama)/blue Ledi lantis 1978 (Gold Cup x Golden Waffles)/gold Little Aurora 1978 (Tokudama Aureonebulosa x Golden Waffles)/gold Love Pat 1978 (Blue Velvet x Blue Vision)/blue Midas Touch 1978 (Gold Cup x Golden Waffles)/gold Neat Splash 1978 (Yellow Splash x fortunei robusta hybrid)/streak Reversed 1978 (sieboldiana hybrid mutation)/white center Royal Rainbow 1978 (Bold One x Flamboyant)/streaked Serendipity 1978 (Blue Cadet x tokudama)/blue Squiggles 1978 (Yellow Splash x Neat Splash)/streaked Swoosh 1978 (Yellow Splash x Neat Splash)/streaked Tot Tot 1978 (Blue Cadet x venusta)/blue True Blue 1978 (Chartreuse Wedge x (nigrescnes x Blue Vision)/blue White Colossus 1978 (Bold One x Flamboyant)/white center White Magic 1978 (White Christmas x Flamboyant)/white center White Vision 1978 (Sun Glow x Gold Cup)/gold Yellow Waves 1978 (Wogon x Chartreuse Wiggles)/gold Zounds 1978 (Golden Waffles x Golden Prayers)/gold
1979 Green Fountain 1979 (Green Wedge x longipes)/green Ground Master 1979 (Yellow Splash x Neat Splash)/white margin True Love 1979 (Blue Vision x True Blue)/blue Wide Brim 1979 (Bold One x Bold Ribbons)/white margin
1980 Amy Aden 1980 (Fascination x High Fat Cream)/chartr w/white edge Bravo 1980 (Reversed x Fascination)/white,chartreuse,streaked Citation 1980 (Vicky Aden x ?)/gold w/white edge Color Fantasy 1980 (Gala hybrid)/cream, chartreuse, green Color Glory 1980 (Fascination x Intrigue)/streaked Garden Magic 1980 (Intrigue x sibling)/steaked Loleta Powell 1980 (Fascination x Intrigue)/streaked Look See 1980 (Royal Rainbow sdg)/streaked Love Joy 1980 (Fascination sdg)/streaked Snow Cap 1980 (Wide Brim x Royal Rainbow)/white margin Splish Splash 1980 (Fascination x Intrigue)/streaked Sum and Substance 1980 (unknown)/chartreuse Sunshine Kid 1980 (Fascination x High Fat Cream)/streaked Vicki Aden 1980 (Flamboyant sdg)/streaked Whoopee 1980 (Flamboyant x Fascination)/streaked
1982 Color Accord 1982 (Fascination x ?)/green, chartreuse streaked Comeuppance 1982 (Vicky Aden x Fascination)/streaked Counter Point 1982 (Francee hybrid) streaked w/ white margin Double Edge 1982 (Flamboyant x Fascination)/green w/white margin *Fragrant Bouquet 1982 (Fascination x Fragrant Summer)/streaked *Fragrant Candelabra 1982 (Fragrant Bouquet hybrid)/streaked Fragrant Gold 1982 (Sum and Substance hybrid)/gold *Fragrant Tot 1982 (Amy Aden hybrid)/streaked Jim Cooper 1982 (Sum and Substance hybrid)/gold Mikado 1982 (montana Aureo-marginata x Big Sam)/green Rock Master 1982 (venusta hybrid)/blue Shade Beauty 1982 (sdg x Golden Tardiana)/gold w/white edge Shade Master 1982 (White Vision x Golden Rajah)/gold Shining Tot 1982 (venusta x Rock Master)/green Thumb Nail 1982 (venusta hybrid)/green
1983 Blessings 1983 (yellow tardiana hybrid)/gold w/ white margin Blue Line 1983 (412 x pulchella mutation)/blue Dixie Joy 1983 (Gala x Halo)/gold w/green flecks *Shallmar 1983 (Fragrant Bouquet x Fragrant Candelabra)/gold w/white
1986 Blue Angel 1986 (365 x 361)/blue Bright Glow 1986 (380 x 382)/gold Brim Cup 1986 (392 x Wide Brim)/white edge Daybreak 1986 (unknown Japan)/gold Fall Bouquet 1986 (322 x 324)/green Gaiety 1986 (421 x Blessings)/gold w/white margin Grand Master 1986 (unknown)/white edge *Invincible 1986 (314 x 802)/green Just So 1986 (421 x Little Aurora)/gold w/green edge Knockout 1986 (unknown)/white edge Lights Up 1986 (519 x Chartreuse Wiggles)/gold Pizzazz 1986 (unknown)/white edge Shade Fanfare 1986 (Flamboyant sport)/gold w/white edge *So Sweet 1986 (Fragrant Bouquet x 462)/cream edge Spritzer 1986 (349 x Green Fountain)/gold w/green edge Sun Power 1986 (217 x 219)/gold Vanilla Cream 1986 (456 x Little Aurora)/gold White Charger 1986 (614 x 618)/green
1987 Green Line 1987 (Just So x Little Aurora)/gold High Kicker 1987 (pycnophylla hybrid)/green Peace 1987 (Blue Hugger x Love Pat)/white margin *Sassy 1987 (Art Shane x Invincible)/white edge *Showtime 1987 (Fragrant Bouquet x Fragrant Candelabra)/white margin Sitting Pretty 1987 (Reiko x Amy Aden)/gold w/green margin Sparky 1987 (Amy Aden x pulchella)/green w/yellow margin Stiletto 1987 (Amy Aden x pulchella variegated)/green w/white edge Two Step 1987 (Embroidery x Aden 341)/green w/yellow edge
1988 Excitation 1988 (Citation mutation)/gold *Fragrant Blue 1988 (8413 x 8270)/blue *Sweetie 1988 (Fragrant Bouquet x Fragrant Candelabra)/white edge
1990 Abba Alive 1990 (81-B1 x 83-B4)/white margin Abba Aloft 1990 (Sun Power Sport)/green center w/gold edge Abba At Large 1990 (Sun Power Sport) gold center w/green edge Abba Blue Plus 1990 (81-B1 x 82-B5)/white margin Abba Fit 1990 (81-B3 x 83-B4)/white margin *Abba Fragrant Cloud 1990 (80-F3 x 78-F5)/white margin Abba Little Showoff 1990 (Amy Aden x 78-Y2)/chartreuse w/green edge Abba Nova 1990 (78-G5 x 80-B2)/white margin Abba Spellbinder 1990 (77-B6 x 79-B1)/blue w/chartreuse margin Abba Tops 1990 (77-G4 x 78-G3)/green w/white edge
Unregistered Abba Alight Abba Allegro Abba Blue Prayers Abba Lilian Cannon *Abba Fragrant Century *Abba Fragrant Cloud *Abba Fragrant High *Abba Fragrant Lights Abba Irrestisible Abba Rainbow Abba Soulmate Abba White Abba Windows Center Island
Soils and Soil Preparation
by Tony AventAs Appeared in:The American Hosta Society Journal 1993 volume 24, # 1,2
The most important factor is growing a hosta is owning a hosta...we are all well aware of the tough nature of a hosta plant. The most important factor in growing a hosta well, however is soil preparation, soil preparation, and soil preparation. Nowhere has this need been better demonstrated, than in the garden of Van and Shirley Wade of Belleville, Ohio.
Let me preface my remarks by saying that some areas of the midwest and northwest have naturally near perfect soils. These folks are most certainly skeptical of people such as myself that spend time extolling the virtues of soil preparation. Many others are satisfied with the way their hostas grow, and for them (at least until seeing the Wade garden) felt that they were doing a good job growing hostas.
Begin by remembering that the most important part of the hosta plant is what? Oh, course it's the leaves...right? This illustrates the common misconception that the most important part of something is that which we can see. In hostas as well as almost all other plants, the most important part is the root system...the underground network that provides moisture, nutrients, and anchors the plants in the ground.
We must first examine what the roots would like to be happy, because as the saying goes...happy roots are healthy roots and lead to healthy plants. Probably the most important factor in soil preparation is pH. Ph is defined by scientists as the percentage of hydrogen ions in the soil. In lay terms, pH is the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. The scale of pH in soils runs from 1 to 14, with 1 being the most acid and 14, the most alkaline.
Most garden plants, hostas included, prefer a pH near 6.0, which indicates a soil that is slightly acid. Many native soils in the south have a natural pH of 4.0, while soils in the midwest have pH's in excess of 8.0. While these numbers may seem relatively close, each number represents a ten fold increase in the acidity or alkalinity.
By example, the pH of the native soil in my garden is 4.0, which is 100 times as acid as the desired pH of 6.0. A good analogy is the use of a dilute solution of cleaning bleach that can be used with the bare hand. Imagine making the solution 100 times as strong, then sticking your hands into the solution...look ma...no skin. Begin thinking of your hands as roots of your hostas. As the solution becomes more acid (or alkaline), the root hairs, which absorb the nutrients and water are burned, rendering them unable to perform their primary function. Having the wrong pH consequently negates much of the effect of watering and fertilizing.
Due to the chemical effects of pH, as the soil acidity drops, certain essential plant elements are no longer available to the plants, while other chemical reactions render some soil elements toxic to the plants. Similar chemical reactions occur when the soil alkalinity is excessive...the reason for very few hosta growers in certain areas of the western United States.
Interestingly enough, pH is quite easy and inexpensive to counteract. Most state departments of agriculture offer soil testing for a nominal fee (free in some states). I recommend having a soil test taken ever few years. If you are uncertain about how to get a soil test in your area contact your county cooperative extension service.
I do not however recommend the home soil test kits. While some of these kits do a decent job of determining the soil acidity, they do not measure the buffering capacity of the soil. For example, two different soils of a pH 4, may take entirely different amounts of lime to raise the pH to 6.0. It is not unusual to need amounts from 10 pounds to 200 pounds to change identical pH's in different soils.
In areas of acid soil, powdered agricultural lime does the trick, while in alkaline soils, sulfur (usually used in the form of amonium sulfate) will work to drop the pH.
In using lime, it is critical that the material be mixed into the soil profile. When applied to the surface of existing landscapes, the soil neutralizing effect which takes 6 months to complete will only be effective as the lime moves through the soil at the rate of 1/2 inch per year. This poses two problems...if enough lime is added to change the soil profile all at one time, the surface pH will be too alkaline, while just below the surface, the soil remains acid. Ideally in established plantings, a small amount of lime can be applied every year until the entire soil profile has been raised.
Obviously the optimum scenario would involve having a soil test performed and add the correct amount of lime or sulfur when the beds are prepared. After this time a monitoring of the soil pH every couple of years would be adequate, with small amounts being surface applied as needed.
Many of the garden centers in the acid soil belt have begun to push pelletized lime. Pelletized lime (which I call yuppie lime) is lime that can be spread without turning you or your BMW a gritty shade of light grey. The lime particles have been glued together with a water soluble binder. While pelletized lime can be surfaced applied, a good rain is necessary to dissolve the pellets so that the lime can begin to take effect. Remember that the smaller the lime particles are ground, the faster the lime will work to change the pH.
Many folks make the mistake of using pelletized lime to the rototill into the beds. Since lime works on the "reach out and touch someone" principle, the lime cannot reach out to neutralize acid particles since it is too busy holding hands with thousands of other lime particles. Pelletized lime should always be dissolved on the surface prior to incorporation. I don't mean to degrade pelletized lime, as it is has two advantages...it is much easier to spread, and it pumps much more money back into the economy of the folks who produce and sell the product.
We often hear the advice to plant your hostas in an area that is moist, but well drained...hmmm. Have you ever bothered to think about this advice. Okay, let's begin with moist. Moist is the term that describes a soil condition which is somewhere between wet and dry. That was simple enough, so how about "well drained". On the surface this seems to be a contradiction, for if the area is well drained it should be dry...right?
Wrong, well drained simply means that the excess water drains from the soil, leaving the soil with adequate air space. While we are all familiar with the need for water in the soil, very few gardeners realize the need for air in the soil. Without air in the soil, there is not root growth or development.
If root growth is not taking place, then growth of the hosta also ceases or occurs at a very minimum level. With a lack of root growth, the roots are not able to absorb water or nutrients, even though both may be available in the soil. If excess water is available in a poorly drained soil, the plant could drown and suffer from drought at the same time.
In the world of ideals, which rarely exist outside the classroom, a good soil should be composed of 50% solids (soil particles), and 50% pore space. The soil pore space should be equally divided into 25% air space, and 25% water space. In a typical clay soil on a typical building lot, the total pore space is usually between 25 and 30 percent. Due to compaction and a lack or organic matter, this soil would probably be lacking in both air and water pore spaces. What this means when translated into English, is that the less pore space in the soil, the less the plants will grow.
Most parts of the United States are blessed with clay type soils. While these soils are cursed in both wet weather and dry, the soils are quite valuable for holding moisture and nutrients. Instead of cursing the soils, we need to spend time learning to modify and work with these soils to create an ideal environment for our hostas to grow.
One of the easiest ways to convert these less than desirable soils to productive growing environments is through the incorporation of organic matter. Organic matter is basically something that used to be alive. For most gardeners, this could mean a variety of materials from peat moss to compost to manure.
The act of simply digging into these compacted soils does wonders for adding aeration. The incorporation of organic materials insures that the compaction does not re-occur. The English practice of double digging has long been realized as an important factor in producing some of the lovely and lush English gardens. Due to the intensive labor intensive investment required, it is not often used in this country. In double digging, the top 12 inches of soil are removed and piled to the side. The 12 inches of soil below this layer are dug and mixed with large quantities of organic matter. Then the first layer is reapplied, after also being mixed with organic matter.
Probably the most used and overrated organic amendment is peat moss. On top of being outrageously expensive, peat moss is not very satisfactory at adding aeration to clay soils. Have you ever tried to add peat moss to a soil, then find it again a few days later? Where did it go? Notice that when you open a bag of peat moss it is compacted tightly, reminiscent of the vacuum packed bags of coffee. Is this really going to do us any good in eliminating compaction? Am I saying that peat moss is worse than nothing...no! I am only saying that there are much much better materials available. Save the peat moss for sandy soils which need such ingredients to hold more moisture.
One of my favorite soil amendments is composted leaves. Composted leaves are usually quite abundant in most areas of the country, and are usually free. In many large cities, the towns have large stockpiles that can be accessed free by residents. Other desirable organic materials includes animal manures, compost from your own compost pile, municipal composts, and a variety of other lumber byproducts.
The lumber industry used to have a disposal problem for many of its byproducts, but that was only until they met the gardening industry. Age old piles of sawdust quickly disappeared, when gardeners realized what a wonderful organic amendment was sitting untouched. While old sawdust is becoming much scarcer, a new product which has taken the south by storm...composted ground pine bark. This product, which differs greatly from the shredded mulch makes a wonderful soil amendment. Since it is slow to decompose, but low in nitrogen robbing cellulose, it is wonderful for adding aeration to clay soils.
There are new organic products entering the marketplace almost daily, from Zoo Doo to Mushroom Droppings to Kricket Krap. The key with any organic amendments is to have an adequate and economical supply. The organic amendment is also much more beneficial if it is high in beneficial microorganisms. I would encourage each of you to experiment with many of these different products and draw your own conclusions. For years, some gardeners have extolled the virtues of bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, and the list goes on. What is important to remember is that the only thing that two gardeners ever agree on, is what the third gardener does wrong.
While organic products help greatly in holding moisture, and somewhat in increasing drainage, something more is needed in poorly drained soils. My preference is a material called pea gravel or #78 washed stone. This small washed gravel is spread over the newly tilled bed to a depth of 1/2 inch. The material is then tilled or spaded into the bed to help create the ultimate in permanent aeration. There are a number of new materials on the market to serve similar purposes including chicken grit, isolite (very expensive), and my favorite Stalite. Stalite (marketed under the name "Perma-till" is an expanded (popped like popcorn) slate material which looks like pea gravel but each particle is filled with air space.
Many gardeners have tried to use sand to accomplish the same results of adding drainage, but often wound up with disastrous results. In a clay based soil, sand and clay particles tend to interlock, resulting in a soil with much worse drainage than before. Here in North Carolina, the combination of clay and sand has made us the national leader in brick production. Only when a sand/clay mix becomes more than 70% sand, does drainage improve. The only exception is very organic soils. In these soils, a coarse washed sand will benefit the mix.
When blending organic amendments into the soil, it is important that the necessary nutrients be added at the same time. As you know, there are 16 essential elements for plant growth. Of these, the three that are typically added through fertilizers are nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. On a bag of fertilizer, these are the three numbers across the front of each bag. In each bed, I add at least 100 pounds of slow release fertilizer (we use a 21-7-21) for each 1000 square feet of bed area to be prepared. While many of the micronutrients are critical for plant growth, I recommend that these only be added after a soil test. These micronutrients can be extremely toxic if added in too great a quantity.
Nitrogen is probably the most visible element in plant growth. Slow and pale green growth is usually a sure indication that a plant is suffering from nitrogen deficiency. Any time large quantities of incompletely decomposed organic material is added to a planting site, additional nitrogen is beneficial. The bacteria which work to decompose organic matter, use nitrogen as a fuel. If the nitrogen is not adequate, the bacteria will fight the plants for the rights to the nitrogen.
Phosphorous is deficient in many areas around the country. Unlike nitrogen which is very mobile through the soil, phosphorous is not. Unless phosphorous is incorporated into the soil, it will take years of surface applications to get adequate amounts of phosphorous into the root zone. Most folks get enough phosphorous with their choice of a complete fertilizer. If however your soils are deficient in phosphorous, you may wish to supplement with a superphosphate (0-16-0) or triple superphosphate (0-46-0).
Many gardeners, especially the "organic" types, prefer the use of rock phosphate. This raw form of phosphorous is very slowly available in the soil. If rock phosphate is finely ground, and used in combination with a highly organic soil, it becomes a very valuable and long lasting phosphorous source.
Potassium is the final element in the puzzle. Potassium is also available in most commercial fertilizers. Like phosphorous, it moves slowly through the soil. Unless a soil test reveals that your soil is particularly low in potassium, the amounts provided in a standard fertilizer will be sufficient. In sandy soils, supplemental amounts of potassium are often needed. These can be applied in the form of potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, or potassium magnesium sulfate...the type depends on the native soils of the area. Consult your local extension service for specific advice. Let's see some BIG hostas next year!
Perennial Plants
Perennials comprise the largest and most extensive collection of plants at the Chicago Botanic Garden. More than two-thirds of the 2.2 million plants in the Garden's collection are herbaceous perennials. The Garden's perennial collection is, in fact, the largest in the Midwest, and creates one of the largest public displays in the United States.
The Garden features 3,495 different types of perennials–diverse in form, size, color and texture. Half of the perennials are presented in the 23 display gardens, and the other half may be viewed in native habitat settings–an oak woodland, a river corridor and a prairie. This collection shows the public and professionals an extensive and current representation of the best plants for the Midwest and other locales in the same climatic band around the world.
The Chicago Botanic Garden's perennial collection has special depth and diversity in certain key areas. Specialties of the perennial collection are Aster (aster), and Narcissus. Specialties of regional significance include Geranium (geranium), Miscanthus (eulalia) Allium, Carex, Solidago and Iris (iris).
Each year, many of the Garden's 800,000 visitors study our perennials to discover ways to incorporate them into their home gardens. With 75 percent of U.S. households involved in lawn and garden activities, perennials have increasingly become a focus for attention–and are now the fastest-growing segment of the nursery trade.
The 2,037,719 perennials in the Garden's collection represent its largest area of study and have significance in many ways. They provide ever-changing displays of color, texture and form, as well as subjects for research, especially in the Garden's native habitat areas. They comprise an important element of the living classroom for students of the Regenstein School of the Chicago Botanic Garden and for children and teachers throughout the region. In addition, they provide a guide to aid local gardeners and professional horticulturists in their landscape design choices. Finally, they are a repository for rare and unusual taxa and a gene pool for conserving wild-collected species into the future.
The Garden features 3,495 different types of perennials–diverse in form, size, color and texture. Half of the perennials are presented in the 23 display gardens, and the other half may be viewed in native habitat settings–an oak woodland, a river corridor and a prairie. This collection shows the public and professionals an extensive and current representation of the best plants for the Midwest and other locales in the same climatic band around the world.
The Chicago Botanic Garden's perennial collection has special depth and diversity in certain key areas. Specialties of the perennial collection are Aster (aster), and Narcissus. Specialties of regional significance include Geranium (geranium), Miscanthus (eulalia) Allium, Carex, Solidago and Iris (iris).
Each year, many of the Garden's 800,000 visitors study our perennials to discover ways to incorporate them into their home gardens. With 75 percent of U.S. households involved in lawn and garden activities, perennials have increasingly become a focus for attention–and are now the fastest-growing segment of the nursery trade.
The 2,037,719 perennials in the Garden's collection represent its largest area of study and have significance in many ways. They provide ever-changing displays of color, texture and form, as well as subjects for research, especially in the Garden's native habitat areas. They comprise an important element of the living classroom for students of the Regenstein School of the Chicago Botanic Garden and for children and teachers throughout the region. In addition, they provide a guide to aid local gardeners and professional horticulturists in their landscape design choices. Finally, they are a repository for rare and unusual taxa and a gene pool for conserving wild-collected species into the future.
Palm Hardiness Report
Juniper Level Botanic Garden (www.plantdelights.com) Raleigh, NC 27603 6/6/01
We have recently been planting more "hardy" palms in our new display beds, and since our collection is getting larger, though it might be of interest to let folks know which ones survived for us. In 2000/2001, we had one of the most severe winters since 1996. While we only reached a low temperature of 9 degrees F., we barely topped the freezing mark for three consecutive weeks and saw the ground freeze for the first time in nearly a decade. The winter was marked with a number of dead and damaged plants. We do no winter protection of palms. Plants are grown in open ground beds with a ph of 6.5. Here is a report of how the winter hardy palms planted here at Juniper Level Botanic Gardens fared. -tony
Brahea B. mollis - burned but ok (1 plant) (near brick wall)
ButiaB. capitata - severe burn (2 plants)
Chamaerops C. humilis - severely burned (1 plant)
Guihaia G. argyrata - unhurt (1 plant)
NannhrropsN. ritchiana (2 plants unhurt) (2 plants killed)
Rhapidophyllum R. hystrix - unhurt (4 plants)
Sabal S. aff. domingensis? - tip burn (2 plants) S. ‘Birmingham’ - unhurt (1 plant) S. etonia - unhurt (6 plants) S. louisiana -unhurt (5 plants) S. minor McCurtain Oklahoma Form - unhurt (11 plants) S. minor Talledega Alabama Form - unhurt (5 plants) S. palmetto Bald Head Island Form - tip burn (3 plants) S. palmetto Rock Hill Form - tip burn (2 plants) (1 dead) S. palmetto Tifton Georgia Hardy Form - unhurt (3 plants) S. uresana - unhurt (1 plant) S. x texensis (syn. S. ‘Brazoria’) - tip burn (3 plants)
Trachycarpus T. fortunei Charlotte Form - unhurt (10 plants) T. fortunei Taylor Form - unhurt (1 plant) T. fortunei Greensboro Form - severe damage, but alive (1 plant) (2 dead) T. fortunei Norfolk Virginia Form -little damage (5 plants) T. latisectus - burned badly (3 plants) T. martianus Nepal Form - dead (3 plants) T. nanus - burned (2 plants ok) (1 dead) T. princeps (1 dead) T. takil (true) - unhurt (3 plants)
Killed in Previous Years Brahea armata Brahea bella Brahea nitida Chamaedorea radicalis -high elevation collection from Mexico (3 killed @ 10degrees F) Serenoa repens Washingtonia filifera
To Kill in the Future Butia yatay (seedlings) Chamaedorea microspadix x radicalis (seedlings) Chamaerops humilis var. cerifera (planted spring 01) Jubaea chilensis (seedlings) Livinstonia chinensis (seedlings) Phoenix dactylifera (seedlings) Sabal bermudiana (seedlings) Sabal domingensis ( seedlings) Serenoa repens hardy form (seedlings) Trachycarpus fortunei Bulgaria Form (planted spring 01) Trachycarpus wagnerianus (seed) Washingtonia robusta (seed)
We have recently been planting more "hardy" palms in our new display beds, and since our collection is getting larger, though it might be of interest to let folks know which ones survived for us. In 2000/2001, we had one of the most severe winters since 1996. While we only reached a low temperature of 9 degrees F., we barely topped the freezing mark for three consecutive weeks and saw the ground freeze for the first time in nearly a decade. The winter was marked with a number of dead and damaged plants. We do no winter protection of palms. Plants are grown in open ground beds with a ph of 6.5. Here is a report of how the winter hardy palms planted here at Juniper Level Botanic Gardens fared. -tony
Brahea B. mollis - burned but ok (1 plant) (near brick wall)
ButiaB. capitata - severe burn (2 plants)
Chamaerops C. humilis - severely burned (1 plant)
Guihaia G. argyrata - unhurt (1 plant)
NannhrropsN. ritchiana (2 plants unhurt) (2 plants killed)
Rhapidophyllum R. hystrix - unhurt (4 plants)
Sabal S. aff. domingensis? - tip burn (2 plants) S. ‘Birmingham’ - unhurt (1 plant) S. etonia - unhurt (6 plants) S. louisiana -unhurt (5 plants) S. minor McCurtain Oklahoma Form - unhurt (11 plants) S. minor Talledega Alabama Form - unhurt (5 plants) S. palmetto Bald Head Island Form - tip burn (3 plants) S. palmetto Rock Hill Form - tip burn (2 plants) (1 dead) S. palmetto Tifton Georgia Hardy Form - unhurt (3 plants) S. uresana - unhurt (1 plant) S. x texensis (syn. S. ‘Brazoria’) - tip burn (3 plants)
Trachycarpus T. fortunei Charlotte Form - unhurt (10 plants) T. fortunei Taylor Form - unhurt (1 plant) T. fortunei Greensboro Form - severe damage, but alive (1 plant) (2 dead) T. fortunei Norfolk Virginia Form -little damage (5 plants) T. latisectus - burned badly (3 plants) T. martianus Nepal Form - dead (3 plants) T. nanus - burned (2 plants ok) (1 dead) T. princeps (1 dead) T. takil (true) - unhurt (3 plants)
Killed in Previous Years Brahea armata Brahea bella Brahea nitida Chamaedorea radicalis -high elevation collection from Mexico (3 killed @ 10degrees F) Serenoa repens Washingtonia filifera
To Kill in the Future Butia yatay (seedlings) Chamaedorea microspadix x radicalis (seedlings) Chamaerops humilis var. cerifera (planted spring 01) Jubaea chilensis (seedlings) Livinstonia chinensis (seedlings) Phoenix dactylifera (seedlings) Sabal bermudiana (seedlings) Sabal domingensis ( seedlings) Serenoa repens hardy form (seedlings) Trachycarpus fortunei Bulgaria Form (planted spring 01) Trachycarpus wagnerianus (seed) Washingtonia robusta (seed)
Plant Hardiness and Mapping Out a Strategy
by Tony Avent, Plant Delights Nursery, Inc. updated 12/30/07
History of the US Hardiness MapsMost folks who have ever read a gardening book or plant catalog are familiar with plant hardiness zone maps. The first US map with 8 hardiness zones was compiled at the Arnold Arboretum in 1927 by Dr. Alfred Rehder, based on a survey of plants and their survivability in different regions of the country. The map was first published in Rehder's Manual of Cultivated Trees and Shrubs.
In 1938, Dr. Donald Wyman of the Arnold Arboretum published a new map in his book, Hedges, Screens, and Windbreaks, that used 40 years of data (1895-1935) from the US Weather Bureau. The Arnold Arboretum map was updated in 1951, 1967, and 1971.
In 1960, the US Department of Agriculture got into the act, publishing its first map, based on the data from 450 weather stations around the country. Unfortunately, they used different criteria from the Arnold Arboretum for establishing their zones, resulting in two conflicting maps.
The Arnold Arboretum map remained the standard over the 1960 USDA map until 1990, when the US Department of Agriculture, in cooperation with the US National Arboretum, updated the USDA hardiness map, using data from between 4,800 to 14,500 weather stations. Various publications by Dr. Marc Cathey, who oversaw the map project, have given a wide variety of radically varying weather station numbers. I expect the low end would be more accurate. Although Cathey also claims to have used a 15-year dataset, the 1990 map actually used a 13-year dataset from 1974-1986 (US) and 1971-1984 (Mexico). This revision shifted most areas into zones that were one half to one zone cooler than the previous Arnold Arboretum map.
What the Maps Don't Tell UsWith hardiness zone maps, gardeners could now trace zone lines around the country to find out which plants they could possibly grow in their own region. Let's see here ... Raleigh, North Carolina, is in the same zone as Reno, Nevada, Dallas, Texas, and most of Vancouver Island in Canada ... could this be right? In fact, the answer is a resounding "No." You are beginning to see a few of the problems with the USDA winter hardiness map.
Each of the current USDA 20 climatic zones (Zone 1, 2-10a,b, Zone 11) is based on the average minimum winter temperatures. In Zone 7b, which includes Raleigh, our average winter minimum temperatures should be from 5-10 degrees F. Keep in mind that there is often a major difference between what will grow in the "a" and "b" regions of each zone.
What the winter hardiness map doesn't tell us is how many times the temperatures dropped that low, and how long these low temperatures lasted. There are a number of plants that can survive 5 degrees F for a couple of hours, but could not survive these temperatures for a longer period, or more than once during a winter. Cold temperatures for one night is not the same as cold temperatures for a period of weeks, even though the same low temperature is reached in both cases. In many cases, a low temperature of 0 degrees F, may cause cellular damage that will start to heal if the temperature rises rapidly. If the temperatures remain low for several days, cell damage may continue and result in the death of the plant.
It is truly difficult trying to assign a hardiness zone to all plants, especially when using the minimal 10 USDA Zones. This is why we find it critical to differentiate between the "a" and "b" zones whenever possible ... we would prefer a "c" and "d" also. A drawback to growing new and different plants is that there is no information on their hardiness.
Another factor not taken into account by maps is winter acclimation. A plant growing in our gardens in midsummer can be easily killed by temperatures in the 20 degree F range. The same plant, if properly acclimated, can withstand temperatures of -20 degrees F. We see the exact same thing in some late spring frosts. After a certain number of hours at a specified temperature, each type of plant will switch from a dormant winter mode to a growing spring mode. It is at this point that winter hardiness is lost. If a late frost occurs while the plant is still in its dormant mode, there is little, if any, damage. If the late frost occurs after the plants have switched to active growing mode, even a mature tree may be killed.
If we have an abnormally warm fall, many plants that rely on cool temperatures to trigger dormancy can be killed when the temperatures drop suddenly. Several years ago, we went from 70 degrees F to 4 degrees F in the same day, suffering losses on many "hardy" woody plants that simply had not prepared well for winter. In Raleigh, we have found many "tropical" plants to be hardy that are not hardy further south in Florida. Unlike climates further south, we have a cool period in fall that allows the plants to shut down and prepare for winter.
Another phenomenon, seen in England and in the cool areas of the West Coast of the US, is the difference in winter hardiness due to a lack of summer heat. In many plants native to warmer climates, summer heat causes increased sugar production, which allows the plants to survive more stress in the winter. In areas without summer heat, a particular plant may only be hardy to 20 degrees F, while in an area with hot summers, the same plant may easily be hardy to 0 degrees F.
Another factor in hardiness is precipitation. I trade plants with friends in New Mexico, who are in the same hardiness zone as we are in North Carolina. In New Mexico, the plants receive less than ten inches of rain per year, while we can receive more than five times that amount. We have discovered that there are a number of plants that can survive our cold temperatures, but cannot tolerate winter moisture. A good example is many of the barrel type cacti which are naturally found in very cold mountainous regions, but regions that receive no winter rainfall.
The opposite effect is equally dramatic. Snow which blankets many areas in "snow belts" helps to insulate many "non hardy" plants. Gardeners whose gardens are covered in snow most of the winter are often able to grow plants, especially perennials, nearly two zones outside their normal range, due to the insulating effect of the snow. On woody plants, a snow layer will often protect the roots and lower branches of a plant while the top growth is still killed back to the snow line.
Ice is an entirely different matter. Ice doesn't have the insulating effect like snow, since there are no buffering air spaces. A plant under an ice layer will actually "supercool" and become colder than the ambient outdoor temperature. Many growers use ice to protect crops during freezes, but this only works at a very narrow range of temperatures (not below 24F), and only if water is constantly applied (and at the proper rate). As the water freezes, it releases heat. As soon as the water application ceases, the protection disappears also.
How about provenance? Provenance, in lay terms, means where did the parents come from? Just like children, offspring bear some resemblance to the parents. Plants are similar, in that seed taken from a tree in Minnesota will be more cold hardy than seed taken from the same type of tree in Florida. Conversely, the plants from the Minnesota seed source might never break dormancy in Florida due to the lack of winter cold. Plants, however, that migrated from a cold region to a warm region during glaciation or other such event may not necessarily lose winter hardiness until many millenia later. This is why many plants from regions such as the Florida Panhandle (Zone 8b) are hardy to Zone 5.
The issue of provenance is important in perennials, but not nearly so as it is in woody plants. Since perennials usually die to the ground in winter, there are no above ground parts to sustain winter damage. Many reference books may indicate that red maples are hardy from Zone 2-9. Granted, there may be red maples growing in both areas, but to interchange seed from each area would likely prove disastrous. This problem is particularly dramatic in woody plants that are grown from seed. It is also usually the most important at the extremes of the zone for each plant. In the case that we mentioned, the gardeners in Zones 2,3 and 8,9 would need to be the most cautious of the provenance.
Cultivars, or vegetatively propagated identical plants (clones), keep the same hardiness regardless of where they are produced commercially. In other words, Hemerocallis 'Stella D.Oro' has the same hardiness whether it is produced in Florida or Chicago. The hardiness of a plant is based on the origin of the original genes, not where we, as humans, move the plants.
Also related to hardiness is the issue of fertilizers. Research has indicated that a fall application of a high potassium fertilizer (assuming the plants or soils are deficient) aids in winter survivability of many plants. Conversely, an early fall application of nitrogen can make plants which are not induced into dormancy by day length, continue to grow, causing them to be more susceptible to winter damage.
We have all heard about not pruning some shrubs in late summer and fall. This is because some plants respond to pruning by producing new growth which is quite tender and is easily killed since it has not become acclimated to the cold temperatures.
If you enjoy growing plants in zones which are too cold, try to create microclimates. Microclimates are areas of your garden that are particularly protected, such as near a brick wall, near heat vents from the house, near a body of water, between two structures, in courtyards, or other such areas. Good plant nuts can usually squeeze out an extra zone in either direction ... that should build some egos! If you enjoy experimenting with marginal plants, I urge you to invest in battery-operated digital min/max thermometers. These can be placed around your garden and will record and save minimum temperature readings. You can determine which areas stay warmer in the winter and use this information to site marginal plants.
As mentioned, the siting of marginal plants is critical. Marginal evergreens should be located on the north side of a structure or in some shade in the winter time. With the ground frozen, the evergreen foliage is desiccated since water given off to the sun and wind cannot be replenished. With deciduous marginal plants, a location in a sunny spot will allow the ground to warm, often making the difference in survivability.
Not to be overlooked are rodents that are active in the winter. Many reports of plants that didn't survive the winter temperatures are actually plants that have become dinner to hungry rodents. Be aware particularly of voles, tiny rodents that tunnel around your plants (especially the expensive ones) and snack during the fall, winter, and spring. A dead plant with a quarter-sized tunnel nearby is a sure sign of voles. Check with your local Cooperative Extension service on eradication methods available in your area.
Heat Hardiness MapsOne of the most frustrating problems for gardeners in the south is summer hardiness. Reference books and most plant catalogs have completely neglected the effects of heat on plants. Many plants from the north are not able to withstand our hot summers. In 1997, the American Horticulture Society published a "heat map", and while a good idea, the map as published serves no practical purpose for gardeners. The Heat-Zone Map confuses gardeners with two sets of numbers ... i.e., Zones 5-9 and 9-5. One set of numbers is for cold and one for warmth. There is no reason that one complete map could not serve both needs.
A good example of a heat hardiness discrepancy is lady's mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris), a perennial featured in English gardening books. Due to our summer climate in Raleigh, NC, it is virtually impossible to grow this plant in the south. Another example is the beautiful mountain ash (Sorbus sp.) with the bright red berries in the fall. Try as we might, the mountain ash will not tolerate our summers.
But wait, gardeners in Zone 7 on the West Coast can grow these plants successfully ... what gives? The Heat-Zone Map simply shows the number of days above 86 degrees F or each region of the country. Heat hardiness is more an issue of night temperatures, humidity, and precipitation during the hot season, not simply the number of days above 86 degrees. As we mentioned, another wrench enters the picture when we talk about night temperatures as compared with day temperatures. In many cases, the culprit is not only the high day temperatures that cause plants problems, but also the high night temperatures. During the day, plants store up energy produced through photosynthesis. If the nights are cool, the energy goes into growth of the plant. If the nights are too warm, the energy is burned up by the plant. Many plants, due to their metabolism derived in a cool night climate, are not hardy in other areas, simply because of their warm night temperatures.
There is still another factor in heat hardiness that we have overlooked ... one of dormancy. A hosta, for example, will not grow well in parts of Florida, (parts of Zone 9, and 10). The problem here is that temperatures do not drop low enough in the winter time for the plant to go completely dormant. Many plants, both perennial and woody must have a specific dormant period in order to start growth again in the spring. A hosta must be exposed to at least one month of temperatures below 40 degrees F. If this temperature requirement is not met, the plant will begin to decline in the spring, or in the case of some trees, will never resprout in the spring until the dormancy requirement has been satisfied.
Good Maps Gone BadAfter the 1997 Heat Hardiness Map fiasco, the American Horticulture Society made an even bigger horticultural faux pas when, in 2003, they published a draft revision of the 1990 Hardiness Zone map. It's called a "draft" version because interested parties notified the USDA about the impending screw-up just prior to publication, and the project was halted immediately. The 2003 draft map, using data from 4,700 weather stations, was compiled using the premise that the climate had warmed so dramatically that only the last 15 years (1987-2001) of climatic data was needed. This recent data shifted Chicago, IL, into Zone 6, making for a true horticultural disaster when a real winter such as 2002/2003 occurred. The 2003 map also eliminated the "a" and "b" designations which would put two completely different climates, such as Wilmington, NC, and Wilmington, DE, into the same zone. This change was being made to make the map more "readable." The 2003 map also added more tropical zones, 12-15. The 2003 map certainly tops the all-time horticultural "what were they thinking?" list. In 2006, the Arbor Day Foundation released a map similar to the 2003 AHS map, which made the same unfortunate errors in judgment by including only 10 zones and using a 15-year dataset.
New Maps on the WayOn August 18, 2004, a group of stakeholders first met at USDA-ARS offices in Beltsville, Maryland to discuss the 1990 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map revision. The August 18 meeting included representatives from USDA-ARS, the American Horticulture Society, the American Association of Botanic Gardens and Arboreta, university researchers, and representatives of the nursery industry. There have been several meetings since, as work on the new map progresses. In 2007, the contract to produce the new map was awarded to the Prism Climate Group from Oregon State University.
The hardiness map revision project will consist of two phases. In Phase I, the map will be reconstructed using the most recent 30 years (up from 15 years) of average annual extreme minimum temperatures. The map will also retain the "a and b" designations for zones 2-10, but not for zone 11 and zone 1. For the first time, the map will include a better breakdown of coastal/lake effects and elevation differences. The map will be made available on-line where you can search for and zoom in on a target area. The map is nearing completion at the beginning of 2008. Preliminary draft maps show many areas that have warmed up to 7 degrees from the 1976-1990 period to the 1991-2006 period. Other parts of the country have seen their average minimum temperature rise only a degree or two. Final details and concern of the committee are being addressed at this time. Phase II of a possible future project will hopefully involve overlay maps for other factors such as duration of cold, summer heat factors, and perhaps even air flow patterns.
SummaryWhat I hope you will realize is that growing plants can be very complex. The hardiness zone maps are a great guide, but are only a guide and only when the zones assigned to plants by nurseries are accurate. Don't be frustrated when a new plant dies, and certainly don't give up trying to grow that particular plant. After you kill it three times, use the compost you've created to help grow another plant.
If You Can't Stand the Heat, Get Out of the Garden
"Gardening with Sun Loving Native Plants"by Tony AventWritten for The News and Observer, Raleigh NC August 13,20 1994
Do you find it curious that North Carolina has the reputation in most gardening circles, as the land of azaleas and camellias. Folks travel from destinations around the country to view the famous "Southern Spring".
What I find interesting is that none of the plants that we are known for, with the exception of our dogwoods, are native in our area. Our reputation began to develop after an influx of plants, mostly from Japan and China that began to fascinate American gardeners, especially in the south. I guess the old saying "Familiarity Breeds Contempt", caries over to our gardening habits. The only problem is that most gardeners these days are not even familiar with many of our wonderful native plants.
Since many native are flowering now, I thought it would be a good time to highlight some of the really fabulous perennials. Let's begin by realizing that most native perennials perform entirely different in a garden settings, than they do in the woods, or on the roadsides. What often looks scraggly in the wild, or barely alive at 55, will actually make a spectacular garden plant.
I'll begin with one of my favorite group of garden wildflowers, the eupatoriums. The most striking member of the group is E. fistulosum, or joe pye weed. This giant grower is often found in roadside ditches from the Triangle area west, through the middle of the country.
Eupatorium fistulosum is a spectacular perennial, with the hollow bamboo like stalks rising to 12 feet, in good soil. The stems are topped now, with massive purplish flower clusters. Large clumps may contain up to 50 flower heads, each nearly a foot across.
There are actually several selections of joe pye weed that you may want to search out for your garden. There are a couple of dwarf forms on the market (dwarf is a relative term). Both the variety E. Gateway' and E. Selection' are actually E. purpureum forms that reach only 4-6 feet and have a much darker flower color. E. Bartered Bride' is a white flowered form, but unfortunately fades too fast to be of much use in a perennial garden.
My favorite joe pye weed story is that of former NC nurserymen, Allen Bush, who when visiting Germany was astounded by the wonderful perennial that he saw in every public garden and park. He then ordered several hundred of these eupatoriums from Germany to propagate and sell, only to find out soon after they arrived that he his property was filled with thousands of the same plant, which were being mowed to the ground along the roadside.
There are a number of other eupatorium species and subspecies, 52 to be exact that are naturally found in the Carolinas. There are two other species, very similar to E. fistulosum. E. purpureum, a mostly west of the piedmont species and E. maculatum, a mountain species, are very similar except for their solid stems.
The best known eupatorium is one that is known not just for its ornamental potential, but for its ability to reseed. E. capillifolium, commonly called dog fennel has a reputation that is hard to deny. Anyone who has ever farmed in eastern NC is very familiar with dog fennel, as one of their least favorite weeds. While it is hard for me to admit, since I have weeded more than my fair share, the plant is quite attractive with its lacy foliage, topped by it's white flower heads, appearing soon. A similar species that I have seen with nice reddish stems is E. compositifolium.
One of my favorites, is the hyssop leaf joe pye weed, E. hyssopifolium. This four foot tall native has narrow leaves, topped by a giant head of white flowers that are just beginning to open. This is a great textural plant that can be blended well into a perennial border, where a light and airy feel is needed. I have found a wonderfully robust form in a local parking lot that is particularly nice.
Another very different eupatorium is E. perfoliatum, or boneset. The botanical term perfoliatum, means that the stem runs through the center of the leaf, sort of like you would find with eucalyptus. This unique perennial makes a nice upright clump to 4-6 feet tall, also covered with nice white flower clusters now. As you can tell by the common name boneset, most of the eupatoriums are used herbally to cure a variety of ills.
Eupatorium rugosum has come into the spotlight recently with the splendid selection from Mt. Cuba Center in Pa., called Eupatorium rugosum Chocolate'. This splendid selection has nice purple foliage, topped with white flowers in very late summer.
As with most perennials, joe pye weed dies to the ground in the fall, and resprouts in the spring. The spring growth is so extraordinarily fast, that visitors this spring, have actually claimed to have seen joe pye weed growing. All of the eupatoriums that I have mentioned are clump formers, although in favorable garden conditions, they may seed around the garden. While most eupatoriums prefer moist soils, they will perform very well in dry gardens, although the height may be reduced slightly.
Another of my favorite groups of natives are the vernonias, or iron weeds. It seems that the sole purpose of these plants are to remain alive long enough to be mowed off by the Department of Transportation mowing crews. This is really ashamed, as this is another of our very spectacular native plants.
The most common form is Vernonia noveboracensis, often called New York ironweed. This robust grower to 5-7 feet comes into full flower now with dramatic heads of vivid dark purple flowers. Each clump can become quite large, so give this one room to grow.
I am currently growing nine different vernonias, each of which is spectacular in its own right. V. arkansana is probably the showiest of the species, with literally 50+ flower heads per clump. The form of V. altissima that I have is an awesome specimen. The reddish stems on this very vertical species are topped in truly wonderful heads of brilliant purple.
If you are looking for something smaller, V. angustifolia, with very narrow leaves give a delicate texture to the perennial garden, along with V. fasciculata and V. missourica are slightly shorter.
I'm in my tall plant phase now, and am very much enjoying V. altissima (syn. V. gigantea). This splendid native reaches 8-10' tall in our garden, and is indeed a spectacular addition to an otherwise flat landscape.
Most vernonias are native in the same habitat as the joe pye weeds...ditches and wet areas. As with the joe pye weeds, they adapt very well to dry garden soils. Vernonias are easy to propagate from stem cuttings taken now, or just wait, and they will scatter a few seedlings around your garden.
Not only are vernonias great for the garden, but they are a flower arrangers dream come true. They are wonderful in flower now, or equally as spectacular as dried specimens. I leave my clumps in the garden until early spring to enjoy the great winter structure, and perhaps use a few stems in the house for decoration.
Another group of over looked gems include the amsonias, or blue stars. For the most part, these perennials make medium size clumps that are topped with sky blue flowers in early spring...here's one for you tarheel fans.
Amsonia tabernaemontana is probably the most common species in the state. This blue star has leaves about the size of a weeping willow on a 3 foot tall clump. As I mentioned, spring finds the plant topped with light blue flowers for a month.
Amsonia ciliata is a slightly narrower leaf species, that I enjoy in my garden. The lacier texture mixes well in the perennial border. One of the virtually unknown, and difficult to find gems is Amsonia ciliata var. filifolia. The foliage on this low ground cover spreading form is incredibly lacy. Here is a sandhills native that truly deserves wide spread use.
My favorite species has got to be Amsonia hubrichtii. This southeast native was introduced to cultivation by Woodlanders Nursery in Aiken SC (which has also been responsible for many of the other wonderful natives mentioned). This narrow leaf amsonia makes a typical size clump to 3 feet with a similar spread. As with the rest of the amsonias, the clump is topped with a very pale blue flower clusters in early spring.
In addition to the flowers, the foliage of amsonias make a great addition to the border with their lacy texture throughout the season. As a general rule, amsonias prefer sunny hot dry sites, although they will perform well, with a few less flowers in filtered shade.
Butterfly weed or asclepias is a plant that anyone who has taken a summer drive through the country side has seen. There is little else in the plant world that can equal the brilliant orange flowers of our native Asclepias tuberosa.
Since many of you have probably tried to dig butterfly weeds, you will also realize that it prefers not to be transplanted from the wild. A. tuberosa is a tough plant, however, and will tolerate even the driest and hottest of conditions, and keep on flowering. Occasionally color variants can be found in the range of yellow and red, although these are rather rare.
Another asclepias that is overlooked as a garden plant is Asclepias incarnata or swamp milkweed. With a name like swamp milkweed, it doesn't sound appealing, but that is far from true. This 3' tall native is smothered most of the summer with clusters of mauve pink flowers. A. incarnata is equally at home in regular garden conditions, in addition to being quite happy in a swamp.
Other wonderful native asclepias include A. syriaca, the common milkweed and A. verticillata, the narrow leaf milkweed. All are great summer garden flowers, as are most of the twenty species of asclepias native to the Carolinas. I've grown ten native species from seed, and will report their performance later.
One of the most commonly recognized group of native summer flowering perennials are the rudbeckias, or black eyed susans. It seems that everyone who grows perennials, has tried one of the rudbeckia fulgida forms called R. Goldsturm' (Gold Storm). This commonly grown seed strain is little more than our native R. fulgida v. sullivantii. It's amazing how this gem has found its way into gardens around the world...long before it every became popular in its own backyard.
Another equally as wonderful, but little used gem is the native R. triloba. With hundreds of flowers, similar but slightly smaller than R. Goldsturm', this rudbeckia gets slightly taller, and is easier to blend into a border.
By far, the most spectacular native black eyed susan is R. maxima. Native to the Mississippi River region, the foliage of this rudbeckia looks exactly like collards...large blue waxy leaves. In late spring, the base gives rise to black eyed susan flowers on seven foot tall stalks. After the initial flowering, the stalks can be cut to the ground to produce a second flowering.
A common native, and a true star in my garden now, is R. laciniata. There are several varieties of this native that you are likely to find in your local garden center...most selected again in Europe. My favorite is R. laciniata Sun Glow, a gorgeous double yellow. R. laciniata can get quite tall, often to 6-7 feet, and makes a large clump, so place it accordingly in the garden.
If you like tall, then you are going to love R. nitida. This native resembles a steroid induced black eyed susan. In reality, it is a yellow eyed susan, to 6-8 feet, but sturdy without staking. A good selection to look for is R. nitida Herbstonne'.
One of my favorites is the midwestern black eyed susan, R. subtomentosa. This native grows to 5-6 feet, and is a wonderful subject to blend into a large perennial border. Our patch is still in full flower after a month of heat and humidity.
If you plant black eyed susans and the plants fail to return, except for a bevy of seedling, you are probably growing the native R. hirta or one of its many forms. While occasional plants will survive, they usual act as annuals. This is a good rudbeckia for almost instant flowers, that will persist through the summer.
A first cousin to the black eyed susans are the purple coneflowers or echinacea. Separated at birth by botanists, and to a lesser extent by flower color, there are a lot of similarities. Most gardeners have grown some form of the common purple coneflower E. purpurea. In fact one of the many selections of echinacea, E. Magnus' has been chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their 1998 Perennial Plant of the Year...a nice honor for a native.
This spring and summer flowering native usually reaches 12-24" in garden conditions with flowers of pinkish purple. Purple coneflowers seed occasionally through the garden, and are always welcomed by the flower arranger in the family.
There are a number of narrow petal coneflowers, whose purple petals are much narrower, giving an entirely different look to these garden perennials. Some species with this characteristics include E. pallida, E. angustifolia, E. tennesseensis, and the endangered E. laevigata.
If you really want to dazzle your neighbors, look for plants of E. paradoxa. This is a real paradox, being the only echinacea with yellow flowers.
Another close relative group of natives are the helianthus or sunflowers. As a general rule, these are fairly tall, and almost all have yellow "sunflower" color flowers.
One of the most popular, thanks to the work of Edith Eddleman in the NCSU Arboretum perennial border, is Helianthus angustifolia. Often dubbed the swamp sunflower, it is equally happy in swamps or in a typical garden environment. H. angustifolia gets quite large, often to 8 feet by the time it produces its large clusters of yellow flowers in late summer and early fall. I always like to cut these back to a couple of feet in mid summer...works great for height control without affecting flowering time.
A more manageable, but virtually unknown native is H. atrorubens. I say my first plant on the roadside in Raleigh, where I was so struck that I had to pull over to the side. Cuttings, which rooted easily allowed me to try this gem in my garden. It appears to be one of those perennials that is so good, it must have just got overlooked.
A fun native to blend with the likes of echinaceas and rudbeckias is Tovara virginiana (syn. Polygonum virginiana). or painters palette. There is a unique selection of this native, T. Painters Palette" that has 12-20" tall stalks of green, black, and white patterned leaves. During the summer, the plants are topped with stalks of tiny reddish flowers that just beg to be blended into the perennial garden.
Another exciting, but overlooked group of garden plants are the liatris or blazing stars. As you drive along the highways, the small patches of purple are probably liatris. Liatris has been thoroughly hybridized, thanks in part to the florist industry that has taken a fancy to these plants.
While there are fourteen species native to the carolinas, there are two that stand out for garden use. The finest of the blazing stars is Liatris microcephela. This liatris with very narrow leafs also has a wonderful branching habit at the base. The stalks that arise to 3' are clothed in bright lavender flowers.
The other unique liatris is L. elegans. Each plant does not make an impact, but a drift of these is quite wonderful. The unique aspect of this liatris it the color of a lavender grey...a far cry from the typical color of liatris.
The final group of plants that I want to visit today are the lobelias or cardinal flower. The common name came from the species L. cardinalis, whose stalks of brilliant red are blazing in the garden now. Lobelias overwinter as a flat green rosette (sort of like a plant cow chip), which must remain uncovered during the winter. In spring the rosette begins to expand, resulting in several stalks of red flowers through the summer and often into the fall.
The other common species is L. siphilitica, the great blue lobelia. Lobelia siphilitica is not a graceful as L. cardinalis, but it makes up the difference by being unbelievably tough. The flowers of either blue or white occur on 15-30" spikes during the summer also.
Thanks to the work of breeders such as our local Thurman Maness, who has combined these two species into a number of wonderful hybrids, we are continuing to expand the usefulness of many of our wonderful native species. In many cases breeding, or simply selecting and propagating a particularly nice form of a native may be all it takes for a plant to get the recognition that it deserves.
Do you find it curious that North Carolina has the reputation in most gardening circles, as the land of azaleas and camellias. Folks travel from destinations around the country to view the famous "Southern Spring".
What I find interesting is that none of the plants that we are known for, with the exception of our dogwoods, are native in our area. Our reputation began to develop after an influx of plants, mostly from Japan and China that began to fascinate American gardeners, especially in the south. I guess the old saying "Familiarity Breeds Contempt", caries over to our gardening habits. The only problem is that most gardeners these days are not even familiar with many of our wonderful native plants.
Since many native are flowering now, I thought it would be a good time to highlight some of the really fabulous perennials. Let's begin by realizing that most native perennials perform entirely different in a garden settings, than they do in the woods, or on the roadsides. What often looks scraggly in the wild, or barely alive at 55, will actually make a spectacular garden plant.
I'll begin with one of my favorite group of garden wildflowers, the eupatoriums. The most striking member of the group is E. fistulosum, or joe pye weed. This giant grower is often found in roadside ditches from the Triangle area west, through the middle of the country.
Eupatorium fistulosum is a spectacular perennial, with the hollow bamboo like stalks rising to 12 feet, in good soil. The stems are topped now, with massive purplish flower clusters. Large clumps may contain up to 50 flower heads, each nearly a foot across.
There are actually several selections of joe pye weed that you may want to search out for your garden. There are a couple of dwarf forms on the market (dwarf is a relative term). Both the variety E. Gateway' and E. Selection' are actually E. purpureum forms that reach only 4-6 feet and have a much darker flower color. E. Bartered Bride' is a white flowered form, but unfortunately fades too fast to be of much use in a perennial garden.
My favorite joe pye weed story is that of former NC nurserymen, Allen Bush, who when visiting Germany was astounded by the wonderful perennial that he saw in every public garden and park. He then ordered several hundred of these eupatoriums from Germany to propagate and sell, only to find out soon after they arrived that he his property was filled with thousands of the same plant, which were being mowed to the ground along the roadside.
There are a number of other eupatorium species and subspecies, 52 to be exact that are naturally found in the Carolinas. There are two other species, very similar to E. fistulosum. E. purpureum, a mostly west of the piedmont species and E. maculatum, a mountain species, are very similar except for their solid stems.
The best known eupatorium is one that is known not just for its ornamental potential, but for its ability to reseed. E. capillifolium, commonly called dog fennel has a reputation that is hard to deny. Anyone who has ever farmed in eastern NC is very familiar with dog fennel, as one of their least favorite weeds. While it is hard for me to admit, since I have weeded more than my fair share, the plant is quite attractive with its lacy foliage, topped by it's white flower heads, appearing soon. A similar species that I have seen with nice reddish stems is E. compositifolium.
One of my favorites, is the hyssop leaf joe pye weed, E. hyssopifolium. This four foot tall native has narrow leaves, topped by a giant head of white flowers that are just beginning to open. This is a great textural plant that can be blended well into a perennial border, where a light and airy feel is needed. I have found a wonderfully robust form in a local parking lot that is particularly nice.
Another very different eupatorium is E. perfoliatum, or boneset. The botanical term perfoliatum, means that the stem runs through the center of the leaf, sort of like you would find with eucalyptus. This unique perennial makes a nice upright clump to 4-6 feet tall, also covered with nice white flower clusters now. As you can tell by the common name boneset, most of the eupatoriums are used herbally to cure a variety of ills.
Eupatorium rugosum has come into the spotlight recently with the splendid selection from Mt. Cuba Center in Pa., called Eupatorium rugosum Chocolate'. This splendid selection has nice purple foliage, topped with white flowers in very late summer.
As with most perennials, joe pye weed dies to the ground in the fall, and resprouts in the spring. The spring growth is so extraordinarily fast, that visitors this spring, have actually claimed to have seen joe pye weed growing. All of the eupatoriums that I have mentioned are clump formers, although in favorable garden conditions, they may seed around the garden. While most eupatoriums prefer moist soils, they will perform very well in dry gardens, although the height may be reduced slightly.
Another of my favorite groups of natives are the vernonias, or iron weeds. It seems that the sole purpose of these plants are to remain alive long enough to be mowed off by the Department of Transportation mowing crews. This is really ashamed, as this is another of our very spectacular native plants.
The most common form is Vernonia noveboracensis, often called New York ironweed. This robust grower to 5-7 feet comes into full flower now with dramatic heads of vivid dark purple flowers. Each clump can become quite large, so give this one room to grow.
I am currently growing nine different vernonias, each of which is spectacular in its own right. V. arkansana is probably the showiest of the species, with literally 50+ flower heads per clump. The form of V. altissima that I have is an awesome specimen. The reddish stems on this very vertical species are topped in truly wonderful heads of brilliant purple.
If you are looking for something smaller, V. angustifolia, with very narrow leaves give a delicate texture to the perennial garden, along with V. fasciculata and V. missourica are slightly shorter.
I'm in my tall plant phase now, and am very much enjoying V. altissima (syn. V. gigantea). This splendid native reaches 8-10' tall in our garden, and is indeed a spectacular addition to an otherwise flat landscape.
Most vernonias are native in the same habitat as the joe pye weeds...ditches and wet areas. As with the joe pye weeds, they adapt very well to dry garden soils. Vernonias are easy to propagate from stem cuttings taken now, or just wait, and they will scatter a few seedlings around your garden.
Not only are vernonias great for the garden, but they are a flower arrangers dream come true. They are wonderful in flower now, or equally as spectacular as dried specimens. I leave my clumps in the garden until early spring to enjoy the great winter structure, and perhaps use a few stems in the house for decoration.
Another group of over looked gems include the amsonias, or blue stars. For the most part, these perennials make medium size clumps that are topped with sky blue flowers in early spring...here's one for you tarheel fans.
Amsonia tabernaemontana is probably the most common species in the state. This blue star has leaves about the size of a weeping willow on a 3 foot tall clump. As I mentioned, spring finds the plant topped with light blue flowers for a month.
Amsonia ciliata is a slightly narrower leaf species, that I enjoy in my garden. The lacier texture mixes well in the perennial border. One of the virtually unknown, and difficult to find gems is Amsonia ciliata var. filifolia. The foliage on this low ground cover spreading form is incredibly lacy. Here is a sandhills native that truly deserves wide spread use.
My favorite species has got to be Amsonia hubrichtii. This southeast native was introduced to cultivation by Woodlanders Nursery in Aiken SC (which has also been responsible for many of the other wonderful natives mentioned). This narrow leaf amsonia makes a typical size clump to 3 feet with a similar spread. As with the rest of the amsonias, the clump is topped with a very pale blue flower clusters in early spring.
In addition to the flowers, the foliage of amsonias make a great addition to the border with their lacy texture throughout the season. As a general rule, amsonias prefer sunny hot dry sites, although they will perform well, with a few less flowers in filtered shade.
Butterfly weed or asclepias is a plant that anyone who has taken a summer drive through the country side has seen. There is little else in the plant world that can equal the brilliant orange flowers of our native Asclepias tuberosa.
Since many of you have probably tried to dig butterfly weeds, you will also realize that it prefers not to be transplanted from the wild. A. tuberosa is a tough plant, however, and will tolerate even the driest and hottest of conditions, and keep on flowering. Occasionally color variants can be found in the range of yellow and red, although these are rather rare.
Another asclepias that is overlooked as a garden plant is Asclepias incarnata or swamp milkweed. With a name like swamp milkweed, it doesn't sound appealing, but that is far from true. This 3' tall native is smothered most of the summer with clusters of mauve pink flowers. A. incarnata is equally at home in regular garden conditions, in addition to being quite happy in a swamp.
Other wonderful native asclepias include A. syriaca, the common milkweed and A. verticillata, the narrow leaf milkweed. All are great summer garden flowers, as are most of the twenty species of asclepias native to the Carolinas. I've grown ten native species from seed, and will report their performance later.
One of the most commonly recognized group of native summer flowering perennials are the rudbeckias, or black eyed susans. It seems that everyone who grows perennials, has tried one of the rudbeckia fulgida forms called R. Goldsturm' (Gold Storm). This commonly grown seed strain is little more than our native R. fulgida v. sullivantii. It's amazing how this gem has found its way into gardens around the world...long before it every became popular in its own backyard.
Another equally as wonderful, but little used gem is the native R. triloba. With hundreds of flowers, similar but slightly smaller than R. Goldsturm', this rudbeckia gets slightly taller, and is easier to blend into a border.
By far, the most spectacular native black eyed susan is R. maxima. Native to the Mississippi River region, the foliage of this rudbeckia looks exactly like collards...large blue waxy leaves. In late spring, the base gives rise to black eyed susan flowers on seven foot tall stalks. After the initial flowering, the stalks can be cut to the ground to produce a second flowering.
A common native, and a true star in my garden now, is R. laciniata. There are several varieties of this native that you are likely to find in your local garden center...most selected again in Europe. My favorite is R. laciniata Sun Glow, a gorgeous double yellow. R. laciniata can get quite tall, often to 6-7 feet, and makes a large clump, so place it accordingly in the garden.
If you like tall, then you are going to love R. nitida. This native resembles a steroid induced black eyed susan. In reality, it is a yellow eyed susan, to 6-8 feet, but sturdy without staking. A good selection to look for is R. nitida Herbstonne'.
One of my favorites is the midwestern black eyed susan, R. subtomentosa. This native grows to 5-6 feet, and is a wonderful subject to blend into a large perennial border. Our patch is still in full flower after a month of heat and humidity.
If you plant black eyed susans and the plants fail to return, except for a bevy of seedling, you are probably growing the native R. hirta or one of its many forms. While occasional plants will survive, they usual act as annuals. This is a good rudbeckia for almost instant flowers, that will persist through the summer.
A first cousin to the black eyed susans are the purple coneflowers or echinacea. Separated at birth by botanists, and to a lesser extent by flower color, there are a lot of similarities. Most gardeners have grown some form of the common purple coneflower E. purpurea. In fact one of the many selections of echinacea, E. Magnus' has been chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their 1998 Perennial Plant of the Year...a nice honor for a native.
This spring and summer flowering native usually reaches 12-24" in garden conditions with flowers of pinkish purple. Purple coneflowers seed occasionally through the garden, and are always welcomed by the flower arranger in the family.
There are a number of narrow petal coneflowers, whose purple petals are much narrower, giving an entirely different look to these garden perennials. Some species with this characteristics include E. pallida, E. angustifolia, E. tennesseensis, and the endangered E. laevigata.
If you really want to dazzle your neighbors, look for plants of E. paradoxa. This is a real paradox, being the only echinacea with yellow flowers.
Another close relative group of natives are the helianthus or sunflowers. As a general rule, these are fairly tall, and almost all have yellow "sunflower" color flowers.
One of the most popular, thanks to the work of Edith Eddleman in the NCSU Arboretum perennial border, is Helianthus angustifolia. Often dubbed the swamp sunflower, it is equally happy in swamps or in a typical garden environment. H. angustifolia gets quite large, often to 8 feet by the time it produces its large clusters of yellow flowers in late summer and early fall. I always like to cut these back to a couple of feet in mid summer...works great for height control without affecting flowering time.
A more manageable, but virtually unknown native is H. atrorubens. I say my first plant on the roadside in Raleigh, where I was so struck that I had to pull over to the side. Cuttings, which rooted easily allowed me to try this gem in my garden. It appears to be one of those perennials that is so good, it must have just got overlooked.
A fun native to blend with the likes of echinaceas and rudbeckias is Tovara virginiana (syn. Polygonum virginiana). or painters palette. There is a unique selection of this native, T. Painters Palette" that has 12-20" tall stalks of green, black, and white patterned leaves. During the summer, the plants are topped with stalks of tiny reddish flowers that just beg to be blended into the perennial garden.
Another exciting, but overlooked group of garden plants are the liatris or blazing stars. As you drive along the highways, the small patches of purple are probably liatris. Liatris has been thoroughly hybridized, thanks in part to the florist industry that has taken a fancy to these plants.
While there are fourteen species native to the carolinas, there are two that stand out for garden use. The finest of the blazing stars is Liatris microcephela. This liatris with very narrow leafs also has a wonderful branching habit at the base. The stalks that arise to 3' are clothed in bright lavender flowers.
The other unique liatris is L. elegans. Each plant does not make an impact, but a drift of these is quite wonderful. The unique aspect of this liatris it the color of a lavender grey...a far cry from the typical color of liatris.
The final group of plants that I want to visit today are the lobelias or cardinal flower. The common name came from the species L. cardinalis, whose stalks of brilliant red are blazing in the garden now. Lobelias overwinter as a flat green rosette (sort of like a plant cow chip), which must remain uncovered during the winter. In spring the rosette begins to expand, resulting in several stalks of red flowers through the summer and often into the fall.
The other common species is L. siphilitica, the great blue lobelia. Lobelia siphilitica is not a graceful as L. cardinalis, but it makes up the difference by being unbelievably tough. The flowers of either blue or white occur on 15-30" spikes during the summer also.
Thanks to the work of breeders such as our local Thurman Maness, who has combined these two species into a number of wonderful hybrids, we are continuing to expand the usefulness of many of our wonderful native species. In many cases breeding, or simply selecting and propagating a particularly nice form of a native may be all it takes for a plant to get the recognition that it deserves.
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